Sasha Sarago: The (de)colonizing of beauty | TED

Transcriber:

翻译人员: Mace Tanyy 校对人员: sylvia feng

今天我想与你探讨美，

以及大家对于女性的错误观点，

Today, I would like to talk to you about beauty

尤其是原住民女性。

and how we've got it all wrong when it comes to our perceptions of women,

但在我开始前，

我想先向我脚下这片土 的传统守卫者致敬。

particularly Aboriginal women.

他们就是歐拉族的盖迪该尔人民。

But before I do, I would like to acknowledge the traditional custodians

我向过去，现在，和未来 的民族尊长们表示敬意。

of the land in which I stand upon:

the Gadigal people of the Eora Nation.

并感恩祖先的指引和保护。

I pay my respects to the elders past, present and emerging

故事发生在1990年， 那天我兴奋极了。

and give thanks to our ancestors who guide and protect us.

我准备在青春期前参加 人生中的第一个生日派对，

It was 1990, and I was pumped.

没有长辈陪同，

更没有烦人又能告状的妹妹跟着。

I was off to my first birthday party,

just before I hit the terrible teens.

我穿搭可爱，

No chaperone,

手里拿着礼物，

and no bratty sister to tag along so she could snitch.

心里希望能在派对遇见 我暗恋的小男生，

I had my cute little outfit on,

而且期待他会问我，

gift in hand,

and I was hoping that this little cutie that I liked would show up.

就是那个让我心头 小鹿乱撞的问题：

And I was hoping that this little cutie would ask me this one question.

你想不想当我的女朋友？

虽然，在那个年龄， 我还真的不该早恋。

You know that question that makes your heart beat right out your chest --

但没关系，

Do you want to be my girlfriend? --

因为当时，也只在意内心的兴奋。

even though I had no business having a boyfriend at that age.

我毕竟也没被表白。

But it didn’t matter,

但是，我真正被问的是：

because back then, it was all about the rush.

“你是什么背景？”

就如一名自豪的原住民小孩， 我自信的回答：

I never did get asked that question.

But the question I did get asked was:

“我是原住民。”

What’s your background?

看着大家的反应，

And like any proud Aboriginal child would declare,

原住民显然是一句肮胀的词。

“I’m Aboriginal.”

所以，当年11岁的我，

Given the reaction of the room,

被好友的成年姐姐告知，

being Aboriginal was clearly a dirty word.

我漂亮得难以置信是原住民。

And at the tender age of 11,

I was told by my best friend’s adult sister

此时，我口燥又血怒,

that I was too pretty to be Aboriginal.

但还是强忍着眼泪， 咽下一切委屈。

By this time, my mouth is dry, my blood is boiling,

我平静地加入朋友当中，

and I'm trying so hard to fight back what feels like an ocean of tears.

开始对任何有趣的事情假笑，

I calmly join my circle of friends

只为了掩饰尴尬。

and begin to fake laugh at whatever is funny

与此同时，我内心一直在 紧握着刚形成的情结。

因此我们必须改变关于美的感知。

to mask my embarrassment,

as I clutch on to my newfound complex.

我们得先向原住民妇女学习，

And this is why we need to change our perceptions of beauty.

了解她们的故事和观点。

因为现在“漂亮”促成了伤痛。

And how we do this is by learning from Aboriginal women,

漂亮之所以伤，是因为 你想抹去我的原住民性质，

their stories and perspectives.

Because right now, "pretty" hurts.

而称赞像白种人特征。

Pretty hurts because you're trying to erase my Aboriginality,

漂亮之所以伤，因为 它在针对原住民女性，

to applaud my proximity to whiteness.

它是一个含着种族主义的武器，

Pretty hurts because aimed at an Aboriginal woman,

性剥削，

和文化灭绝。

it is a weapon loaded in racism,

这个女人并没有发觉，

当她宣称我漂亮得 难以置信是原住民时，

sexual exploitation

and cultural genocide.

她夺走了我珍贵的东西：

You see, what this woman didn’t realize

when she declared that I was too pretty to be Aboriginal

我对民族的自豪。

我身为世上最古老 文化民族的一份子，

is that she took something precious from me:

但是，那天我引以为傲的民族遗产

pride in my identity.

就被取代成羞愧感。

You see, I belong to the oldest living culture in the world,

这是我用尽长达20年 想抹去的污点。

but that day, that legacy --

而这也是我痴迷于美的起点。

it was replaced with shame,

and it's been this filthy stain I've been trying to get rid of

多年来，我试图以模特儿模仿着，

for 20 years.

然后在时尚界提倡多元化，

And this is where my obsession for beauty comes from,

再推出“Ascension”杂志

over the years, trying to mimic it as a model,

来赞美代表性不足 的有色人种妇女。

advocating for diversity in fashion,

to launching "Ascension" magazine to celebrate women of color,

单单一个词，导致了痛苦和创伤，

whose beauty is still underrepresented.

“漂亮”让我学会运用 我的原住民性质

取回我的美。

With much pain and trauma behind one word,

对于原住民妇女

真正的美，来自于 我们坚持的传统角色，

“pretty” taught me, through my indigeneity,

I could reclaim my beauty.

亲属体系，

To Indigenous women,

与国土和水道的联系,

true beauty came from the traditional roles we upheld,

以及如何把民族文化 的学问代代相传。

our kinship systems,

我们对美的定义

connection to country and the waterways

与西方文化对美的 认知是不一致的。

and how we pass this ancient knowledge down to the next generation.

在我的文化里，美貌并不单一。

The way we express beauty

was never defined against a Eurocentric ideal of beauty.

它不能以细腰，翘臀， 白净的皮肤来衡量。

You see, in my culture, our beauty is not monolithic.

它的含义更深层。

It's not measured by a thin waistline, porcelain skin or slender hips.

那原住民认知的美是怎样呢？

它凶悍，挑畔，高傲。

It runs much deeper than that.

So what does indigenous beauty look like?

土著美的典范是巴兰加鲁祖先。

Oh, it's fierce, defiant and proud.

她是有影响力的卡麦里加女性。

And one ancestor who epitomizes indigenous beauty is Barangaroo,

人们都尊崇她的智慧与独立自主。

巴兰加鲁与其他 欧拉族的妇女一样，

a powerful Cammeraygal woman.

都是族里的食物提供者， 为此引以为豪。

Revered for her wisdom and independence, Barangaroo, like the Eora other women,

巴兰加鲁是一名 熟练又耐心的渔妇，

took pride in their status as being the main food providers for their tribe.

她常到悉尼海港周围， 因为那里有充裕的海洋食物资源。

A skillful and patient fisherwoman,

但是她一直适度， 适量的捕鱼，从不奢侈。

Barangaroo would access Sydney Harbour and its surrounding waters

所以，你能否想象 巴兰加鲁当时有多气愤：

for its abundant food supply,

她看见英国殖民者一天内 铺了4000多条三文鱼。

only taking what was needed.

So you can just imagine how furious Barangaroo was

他们再把一些鱼赠送给她的丈夫

when she saw British colonists troll 4,000 salmon off the north shore

还有组里的其他男人。

in just one day,

她知晓这种奢侈的行为

then gifting some of this catch to her husband

不仅会威胁到欧拉族中 女性的文化权威，

and some of the other men from her tribe.

还会破坏他们传统的生活方式。

Barangaroo knew such a wasteful act

would threaten the Eora women's cultural authority within the tribe,

所以，巴兰加鲁拒绝了 英国的法规、习俗、

furthermore destroying their traditional way of life.

饮食和社交礼节。

So Barangaroo rejected British laws and customs,

以想符合的丈夫恰恰相反。

巴兰加鲁与丈夫，贝内朗，被邀请与 菲利普总督和其他英方共餐时，

their food, drink and social etiquette,

even when her husband decided to conform.

巴兰加鲁并没有忘记初心。

When Barangaroo and her husband Bennelong were invited to dine with Governor Phillip

她拒绝英式穿着：

and the British party,

紧身胸衣和珍珠点缀的丝质礼服。

Barangaroo stayed true to who she was.

instead of wearing colonial attire --

她反而穿了传统服装：

a tight corset and a gown layered in silk finished with pearls --

白赭色，鼻中也刺着骨头装饰。

she came sporting her traditional wares:

巴兰加鲁印证了 原住民的美是正宗的

white ochre and a bone through her nose.

贝丽尔· 奥普卢阿姨， 一位加米拉雷的长老

What Barangaroo illustrated was: indigenous beauty is authentic.

与一群女生分享故事。

她说：

Aunty Beryl Van-Oploo, a respected Gamilaraay elder,

“我们内心都有一点 巴兰加鲁的踪影。“

shared a story with a group of women one day,

那一晚，我想着贝丽尔阿姨 所传达的信息。

and she said,

"We all have a bit of Barangaroo in us."

我收到的信息是，

无论文化，

Later that evening, I thought about Aunty Beryl's message.

肤色或者其他区别，

And what I received from her message was,

我们共享着同样的精神

这是我们之间的联系。

no matter our culture,

color or how we identify,

你看，假如我们把美原住民化，

它的意义就会从审美愉悦

spirit is what we share.

It's what connects us.

改变到神性状态；

You see, if we indigenize beauty,

美，就变成了精神的体现。

the meaning is transformed from aesthetically pleasing

这精神不仅在内心，

to a state of divinity;

beauty now becomes spirit manifested.

也存在所有事物内。

它在自然景色中，也在元素中,

Not only is spirit found within us,

在阿纳姆地东北部的雍古人

it's in all things.

有个“梦幻时光”的故事，

It's in the landscapes, it's in the elements.

关于太阳女神，瓦鲁。

The Yolngu people of northeast Arnhem Land,

据说，瓦鲁都会在 每个早晨点燃小火，

they have a Dreamtime story:

就创造了黎明。

Walu, the Sun woman.

她再把身体涂成红赭色，

They say Walu lights a small fire each morning,

过程中，一些色彩掉入到云辰中，

which creates the dawn.

就创造了日出。

然后，她用一棵树制造了火把，

She then paints her body in red ochre.

And as she does, some of it falls onto the clouds,

提着火把从东到西，穿过天空，

creating the sunrise.

就创造了日光。

She then makes a torch from a stringybark tree

当她的旅程l结束时，

and carries this fire across the sky from east to west,

她从天空降临。

身上的红赭色再次掉入到云辰中，

creating the daylight.

And when it's time for her journey to end,

就创造了日落。

she descends from the sky.

And as she does, some of the red ochre from her body falls onto the clouds,

原住民的美呈现在整个大陆上，

creating the sunset.

每个原住民族都有创世故事， 述说着我们形成的道来，

Indigenous beauty can be seen right across this continent,

如，天文学、医学、 农业、建筑、教育、创新。

each Aboriginal nation with its own creation stories of how we came to be --

当我们发生冲突时，

astronomy, medicine, agriculture, architecture, education, innovation.

我们有“lore”（梦幻时光 中的法规）来维持自序。

And when we had conflict,

就如四季，植物与 动物，白天与黑夜，

we had lore, l-o-r-e, to restore order.

我们都息息相关。

相辅相成，缺一不可，

Like the seasons, flora and fauna, night and day,

正是结合人类的主要原理。

we are all interconnected.

One does not work without the other --

这些年，我对于美的痴迷

the very principles which binds humanity together.

让我明白了这个事实：

当你无法任凭在自身上的美， 那你也无法赏识美感。

Over the years, my obsession for beauty,

it's led me to this truth:

那我们应该怎么改变 对于美的感知呢？

you cannot appreciate beauty

if you cannot recognize it in yourself.

我们得真诚的面对自己，

最先问问“我是谁？”

So how do we change our perceptions of beauty?

我从哪儿来？

We have to get real with ourselves

我生活的世界里-- 有怎样的由来？

而最重要的 ”现在往哪儿走？”

and start by asking: Who am I?

Where do I come from?

你也许会不喜欢你的新发现，

The world that I live in -- how did it come to be?

And more importantly: Where to from here?

但是，忍一忍，试着感受不适。

殖民主义已经从我们这里偷走了

You may not like what you discover.

我们的最大的宝物之一：

But sit with it, feel the discomfort.

彼此。

今年内，我们已经目睹了 病态的政治和社会动荡。

Colonization has stolen from us

one of the greatest treasures we can obtain:

each other.

而疗愈正是人类的解药。

This year alone, we've witnessed pathological political and social unrest.

因为它会令大家团结。

当我们把美非殖民化时，

That is why healing is the antidote humanity needs

我们又重新认识了真实的自己。

because it leads us to unity.

我曾想起那位在 生日派对遇到的姐姐，

When we decolonize beauty,

we are reintroduced to our authentic selves.

就是说我太漂亮而难以置信 我是原住民的那位姐姐。

I used to wonder whatever happened to that woman from the birthday party,

这件使我崩溃的事时刻反而 令我接受了我的“girgorou”。

you know, the one that told me I was too pretty to be Aboriginal.

“Girgorou” 是在吉尔巴, 我外婆的语言, “漂亮”的意思

A moment that was so devastating helped me to embrace my girgorou.

我现在知道我的 “girgorou” 很强大，

"Girgorou" means "beautiful" in Jirrbal, my grandmother's language.

就像巴兰加鲁一样。

我的“girgorou”和瓦鲁一样，

是永久的，

I now know that my girgorou is mighty,

从太阳升起到太阳落下。

like Barangaroo.

And my girgorou, like Walu,

你准备迎接你的“girgorou”吗？

it’s everlasting,

from when that sun rises to when that sun sets.

谢谢。

（掌声）

Are you ready to embrace your girgorou?

Thank you.

(Applause)