The Future of Fashion – Made from Mushrooms | Dan Widmaier | TED

譯者: 穎君 紀 審譯者: Regina Chu

I'm a proud lifelong nerd,

我以身為書呆子為榮，

and I have a PhD in chemistry and chemical biology to prove it,

持有化學和生物化學的博士學位，

which is why I never thought I'd be that guy standing up here,

所以我從沒想過 有天自己會站在這裡，

talking about my love affair with fashion.

暢談我對時尚產業的愛。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

And there's someone else in my life

我的生命中還有另一個人，

who's equally shocked by this turn of events,

和我一樣震驚，

and that's my wonderful wife,

那就是我最棒的妻子，

who literally has a degree in fashion.

她真的有時尚產業的學位。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

But here I am, standing with these two wallets.

現在我站在這，手上拿著兩只皮夾，

One of these is made out of leather,

一只是皮製的，

one of these is made out of mushrooms.

一只是蘑菇做的。

And I'm not going to tell you which one is which.

我不會告訴你哪個是哪個，

The average consumer can't tell you the difference --

因為普通人不會注意到兩者的不同，

kind of the whole point.

也就是我開發這產品的重點。

Because even if you hate fashion,

就算你痛恨時尚流行，

you've got an entire room in your house devoted to it.

家裡還是會有一整個區域貢獻給時尚，

It's called your closet.

叫做衣櫥。

And your closet is full of all kinds of materials --

衣櫥裡充滿著各式各樣的材質：

cotton, leather, nylon, polyester --

棉花、皮革、尼龍、聚酯纖維，

that list goes on and on.

還有更多。

And those materials matter,

這些材質很重要，

because those materials are the reason

因為正是這些材料

fashion is in the midst of a sustainability crisis.

使時尚無法具有永續性。

This is an industry that makes 100 billion plus items per year.

這個產業，一年產出 一千億件以上的商品，

When I started my journey, I thought this was going to be a really easy answer.

剛開始，我還以爲改變這產業不難。

We just consume less,

只要少消費一點，

we have fewer, better things.

做出少量高品質的產品就好。

But in the last decade,

但在上個十年，

I've come to believe that ignores fundamental realities

我漸漸發現前面的想法 忽視了最基本的事情，

of both fashion and human nature.

不論是在時尚，還是人性方面。

You see, fashion is not purely functional.

時尚不單只由機能性構成，

It's about confidence, creativity, self-expression.

還有自信、創造性，和自我表達。

It's a pure reflection of our innate desire, as humans,

時尚反映出我們身為人 內在的慾望，

to always want more.

總是無法滿足的慾望。

And it satisfies our insatiable appetites

時尚恰恰補足了永無止盡的慾望黑洞，

to discover, buy, collect, show off.

滿足探索、購買、蒐集、炫耀的慾望，

In truth, fashion is intrinsic to who we are.

事實上，時尚就是我們的一部份。

There is a piece of good news, though.

不過也有好消息。

We can make fashion sustainable,

我們能讓時尚具有永續性，

and we're going to do it with science,

借助科學之力，

and we're going to do it not by changing the humans,

且不妄圖改變人性，

but by changing those materials themselves.

而是改變時尚產業所使用的材料。

And lucky for us,

很幸運的，

the answers to all of fashion's materials problems

時尚產業永續性危機的解方，

are available today, out there in nature,

現在此刻，就藏在大自然中，

and it's our job, as scientists,

身為科學家，我們的使命就是

to go find the best inventions

從累積了四十億年的材料型錄中， 找出最棒的材質，

from nature's four-billion-year catalog of greatest hits

and bring them to the world of design.

並將它們引進時尚產業。

So I started a PhD,

所以我讀了博士，

and I actually fell in love with one of these materials from nature.

並在那期間迷上了某種 自然界裡的材料：蜘蛛絲，

And it's this -- it's spider silk.

It's this fine, elegant, tough fiber that spiders make.

就是蜘蛛吐出的 纖細、簡練，又堅固的纖維。

You've probably seen a Spider-Man movie, you know.

大家可能有看過蜘蛛人，

You may have wanted to make Peter Parker's web slinger.

有人會幻想擁有彼得帕克的蜘蛛網。

It's OK -- I did, too; it's badass.

沒關係，我也想過，超酷的。

I wanted to recreate that material in a lab,

我想在實驗室裡重現那種材料，

就創建了一間公司專門研究它。

so I started a company, and we did just that.

And the very first product we made was this:

我們的第一項產品是：領帶。

a tie.

I took the very first tie, and I sent it to Stan Lee himself,

我把第一條蜘蛛絲領帶 寄給了史丹・李本人

cocreator of Spider-Man, idol to nerds around the planet,

──「蜘蛛人」的共同創作者， 無數宅宅的偶像，

all-around amazing human.

無懈可擊的神──

And he loved it.

他愛死了。

He actually cold-called my phone from a blocked number,

他用未顯示來點的號碼突然打給我，

and we geeked out over the technology.

和我在電話裡發科技瘋。

And back in those days,

以前幾乎沒有人探索 可永續時尚這個領域，

almost nobody was working on sustainable materials in fashion.

So I excitedly ran off to go talk to designers and fashion executives.

所以我興奮地去找設計師和時尚界總裁 討論我的主意。

And they thought this was fine, cool,

他們確實覺得這點子很酷， 但仍無法停止訴說對皮革的執著，

but they couldn't shut up about their problem with leather.

And for really good reason.

這也確實有些理由。

Leather is one of the most pivotal materials in the fashion world.

皮革是時尚界最關鍵的材料，

In 2020 alone, the five biggest European luxury houses

光在 2020 年， 歐洲五間最大的奢侈品集團

sold over 50 billion dollars of leather goods.

就售出了值超過五百億美元的皮製品。

And the challenge with leather

關於皮革的難題在於，

is that today, it's inextricably linked to raising cows,

使用皮革，就代表必須養更多牛隻，

and not just a few -- like, lots of cows.

不只是更多，而是超多。

And cows, at the global scale, are terrible for our environmental future.

而牛隻，以全球養的數量來說， 會對自然造成極大的破壞。

And so I left this conversation thinking,

於是我結束對話，想著：

"OK, what makes leather leather?"

「什麼要素，讓皮革成為皮革？」

And the truth is,

其實，說實話，

nobody loves leather because it comes from a cow.

多數人喜歡皮革不是因為它來自牛， 而是因為它柔韌又美觀。

We love it because it's strong, it's soft, it's beautiful.

It plays from the runway in Paris to a rodeo in Texas.

從巴黎的伸展台到 德州牛隻競技都能看到皮革，

So if we can take cows out of the equation,

如果拿走「牛隻」這個要素，

what's the thing we have to replicate to make a great material like leather?

還剩下什麼要素，讓皮革成為皮革？

And the answer is microstructure.

答案是它的微觀結構。

So this is a microscope image of the collagen in cowhide.

這是顯微鏡下，牛皮中的膠原蛋白。

And it looks like a mess,

它看起來很雜亂，

it's just this jumble of fibers mixed together.

像是一坨纖維糾結在一起。

At its essence, that structure is why leather is both pliable and strong.

但這構造就是牛皮堅韌的原因。

Now, contrast that to your closet.

對比一下你家的衣櫃。

All those materials are what we call knits or wovens.

這些材質我們稱為編織品。

它們看起來像這樣。

They look like this under a microscope.

它的結構是單根線纏繞自己，

Essentially, you take a single thread, and you loop it around itself,

或兩根線交錯，布料就是這樣完成的。

or you crisscross it over itself, and you make a fabric.

要做出新的材質，

If we want to make a new material

with the same amazing properties as leather,

並同時納入牛皮的優點，

我們必須尋找擁有和牛皮內膠原蛋白 相同的微觀結構的材質。

we need to go out and find a natural material

with the same microstructure as the collagen in cowhide.

Now, my brain gets going with this,

我針對這個沈思了一會後，

and I think, "OK, we can grow skin, we can grow pure collagen,

想到「我們能夠培育人工皮、 培養純膠原蛋白，

we can use plant fibers ..."

能用植物纖維⋯⋯」等等，

Those all fail.

沒有一個成功。

Quality, cost or scalability reasons tank those ideas.

總會有品質、成本或量產的問題 擋住每個主意。

And that's what brought me to the world of fungi.

而這，帶領我進入菌類的王國。

I'm going to assume you all know what mushrooms are.

我猜大家都知道蕈菇，

I'm going to show you some mushrooms on the side of a dead tree.

大家等等會看到長在枯樹附近的蕈菇，

And I'm much more interested in what's happening

而我本人對地面下發生的現象 非常有興趣。

just beneath the surface.

Inside that tree are millions of stringy little strands

樹的內部佈滿幾百萬條小纖維，

that are called mycelium,

它們叫「菌絲體」，

that are eating away at it.

正在慢慢侵蝕腐木，

They look like this.

看起來像這樣。

So you see those white fibrous roots underneath the mushroom --

在蕈菇底下有著許多 如纖維般細細的白色根部，

這些就是菌絲體。

those are mycelium.

They’re these long branch networks.

細長的纖維形成一套網路，

And what they're doing is eating dead stuff in the soil

吸收土壤裡腐敗壞死的物質，

and releasing nutrients to the mushroom and to the ecosystem around it.

將吸收到的養分輸送給蕈菇 和附近的生態系統。

And so now, I'm going to show you side by side.

現在，請大家仔細比對兩張圖，

Collagen on the left, mycelium on the right.

左邊是膠原蛋白，右邊是菌絲體。

We're looking at microstructure;

請用心觀察微觀結構，

I'm saving you six years of getting a PhD.

我現在幫各位省了六年的博士學費。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

We're on to something here.

我們有所發現，

But to pull this off,

但要實現它，

就得將整個時尚產業納入視野。

we need to do this at the scale of fashion.

我們需要大量的菌絲體， 不是一間實驗室，而是一座工廠的量。

We need a lot of mycelium. Not a lab, but a factory.

So that's exactly what we did.

我們做的事情如下：

So here, what you're seeing is our first factory,

這是我們的第一間工廠，

and you're seeing rows and rows of pure mycelium

照片上的是在培養皿裡培養的 一批批菌絲體，

growing in these trays.

And those mycelium are eating leftover sawdust,

它們正在吃廢棄木屑， 做著它們在自然界中最擅長的事：

so they're doing what fungi do best in nature --

they eat something nobody wants, and they turn it into something useful.

吃掉其他生物不會吃的物質， 將其轉換為有用的養分。

And instead of growing into the soil,

它們不深深鑽入土壤，

these mycelium are growing up in these big puffy clouds

而是向上長成這樣一團團蓬鬆的雲朵，

that we can easily harvest.

非常容易採集。

And this is where science has to meet design.

這就是科技遇上設計的瞬間，

We take that material and turn it into something leatherlike.

我們將這種材質做成類似牛皮的材質。

It has to be beautiful, has to be functional.

它得要美觀、實用，

And designers need to be able to easily incorporate it

且容易讓設計師採用、融入 時尚產品之中。

into the world of fashion products.

The first prototypes were none of those things.

最初的幾種原型 都離這些目標遙不可及，

But after many thousands of iterations,

但經過數千次改良，

we have a material, and we call it Mylo.

我們終於做出來了，它叫 Mylo 。

And Mylo does everything we set out for it.

Mylo 符合我們的所有期望。

It's beautiful, it's functional,

它既美觀又實用，

but most importantly, it's sustainable.

最重要的，它具有永續性。

So when you grow mushrooms,

種蘑菇時，

it takes about a little under one square meter of land

只需一平方公尺左右的土地，

to grow one kilogram of mushrooms.

就能種出一公斤的蘑菇。

Contrast that to cows --

相對的，一公斤的牛， 需要 97 平方公尺左右的陸地飼養。

takes about 97 square meters of land to grow one kilogram of cow.

And when we're growing Mylo,

培養 Mylo 時，

we're doing this in high-density vertical agriculture,

空間的使用集約又垂直，

and we power it with 100 percent renewable energy.

且生產過程使用百分之百再生能源。

And this is technology.

這就是科技的力量。

We're constantly getting better. Contrast that to the cow.

科技可以日新月異，但畜牧不行，

It's about as good as it's going to get,

養牛的技術進步有限。

and the cows really don't like it

而且牛可沒那麼高興，

如果你把牛隻垂直集約飼養。

when you stack them up in high-density vertical agriculture.

And so the question remains:

有個問題還等著解決：

How are we going to distribute this material at global scale

我們該如何將這種材質推廣至全球， 以停止環境繼續惡化？

to meet the moment?

我有個壞消息，

I have bad news for you here.

Historically, it takes decades

綜觀歷史，通常需要幾十年，

for a new material to reach global-scale adoption.

新的事物才會被全球接受。

Take spandex, that stretchy fiber.

比如說彈性纖維，

It's in your blue jeans, your yoga pants.

它在你的藍色牛仔褲裡，瑜珈褲裡，

Makes your butt look amazing.

能美化臀部曲線。

That material was invented in the 1950s,

它在 1950 年左右就被發明出來，

and it wasn't until the athleisure megatrend 50 years later

但過了五十年，運動休閒風潮襲來後，

that it was truly everywhere on this planet.

才真正普及到全球各個角落。

And thank you, climate change --

多虧了氣候變遷，

we humans don't have 50 years to wait.

人類已經等不了五十年，

We need to solve this problem.

必須立即解決這個問題。

We need new materials, and we need them now.

我們需要新的材質，刻不容緩，

這就是為何時尚產業能成為一大助力。

And this is where fashion can be transformational.

So I went out and constructed what we call the Mylo Consortium.

所以，我組成了 Mylo 聯營企業，

These are fashion brands you know.

這些是家喻戶曉的時尚品牌：

Stella McCartney, lululemon, Kering and Adidas.

史黛拉・麥卡尼、露露檸檬、 開雲集團、愛迪達等。

Normally, fashion brands are renowned for their competitive nature

一般來講，時尚品牌都以 強烈的競爭性，

and their desire for exclusivity.

及對獨特性的追求聞名。

But I was able to convince these brands

但我成功說服這些品牌說，

沒有一個集團能夠獨自解決這個問題。

that no one group can solve this problem alone.

And to meet this moment,

對照一下現在的情勢，

it was time to act in collaboration instead of competition.

各個集團應該聯手合作，而非競爭，

We did just that.

我們也確實合作了，惦記著 這個問題的急迫性。

With the idea that we're going to solve this really big problem really fast.

And here's a taste of how they're supporting Mylo.

這邊是時裝企業 採用 Mylo 的實際案例。

露露檸檬將 Mylo 織進 瑜珈和健身方面的產品。

Lululemon wove Mylo into yoga and wellness accessories.

Celebrity environmentalist Paris Jackson

明星環保人士芭莉絲・傑克森

modeled Mylo in this fashion editorial.

擔任 Mylo 製時裝的模特兒。

Adidas redesigned the Stan Smith --

愛迪達重新設計史密斯鞋

it's their most iconic style --

──愛迪達最有名的產品──

with Mylo.

並採用 Mylo 。

And Stella McCartney designed the Frayme Mylo handbag,

史黛拉・麥卡尼使用 Mylo ， 設計一款手提包，

and debuted it on the Paris runway.

並在巴黎伸展台亮相。

And that little black handbag that you see right there,

那邊那個黑色的小包包

that's now part of Stella's commercial collection.

現在已經是該品牌的一項產品。

And what that means is that this is not some far-off idea

這代表著，這不是天馬行空的白日夢，

that's a dream that may one day be real.

而是真的可能實現的點子。

Mylo's commercially viable today.

我們已能穩定大量供應 Mylo ， 一平方呎售價三十美金，

We sell it for 30 dollars a square foot.

It's about the price of premium calf leather.

和高級小牛皮差不多價錢。

And this -- this is the tipping point.

這就是關鍵的轉捩點。

This is the first tangible proof that the future of fashion

這是第一個具體證據，

指出永續性材質能夠織出時尚的未來。

can and will be made with sustainable materials.

And this is our road map.

這是我們的產品路程表。

We went looking to nature for a better alternative to leather,

我們走進大自然尋找皮革的替代品，

and we found that mycelium.

找到了菌絲體。

It was hiding in plain sight.

它就藏在隨處可見的地方。

And this story, Mylo's story,

這則關於 Mylo 的故事，

is just one small example in a much broader movement.

只是永續風潮內的其中一個範例，

It's the one I know.

我知曉的案例。

But in the last few years,

但在最近幾年，

countless scientists have joined us

無數位科學家加入了

in this journey of a sustainable materials revolution.

我們的永續性材質革命。

And in the coming years,

在未來幾年，

I think we're going to see amazing advances

我相信我們能夠見證令人驚豔的進步，

that replace all the harmful materials in your closet,

替代掉對環境較不友善的材質，

從衣櫃、房子，到車輛。

in your home and your car.

And my hope is that, by sharing this journey with Mylo,

我希望 Mylo 的產品開發軌跡，

it can act as a blueprint that these others can follow

能成為其他永續性產品的發展藍圖，

to more quickly improve this world for all of us.

更有效率地帶動起世界性的材質革命。

Because in my heart,

因為我的心，

I'm still that nerd from the beginning,

仍然是從前那位書呆子，

and I want to know what else is hiding out there in nature.

我想知道自然界裡還藏著什麼，

I want to know what's the number-one spot

我想知道哪種物質是

on the best-of playlist from four billion years of evolution.

播放清單裡的最佳金曲， 在這四十億年的時空中。

And the incredible part of all this

最不可思議的部分是，

is that fashion undoubtedly compounded our sustainability crisis.

時尚產業是氣候變遷的罪魁禍首之一，

But fashion has a golden opportunity to lead the charge,

卻也同時是翻轉艱難現況的最佳時機，

to live with nature, instead of against it.

能引導大眾與大自然共存，而非排擠。

And now, and in the future,

從現在，直到未來，

fashion's not just about making yourself beautiful.

時尚不再只是打扮自己，

It's also about making this planet beautiful and livable for generations.

更代表著保持好美麗的地球環境， 讓下一代子孫能繼續在這裡生活。

Thank you.

謝謝。

(Cheers and applause)

（歡聲、鼓掌）