What’s the Point of Digital Fashion? | Karinna Grant | TED

翻译人员: Sammi Wang 校对人员: Lening Xu

By 2033,

到 2033 年，

you just might have a smaller wardrobe than you have now.

你的衣柜可能会比现在的小。

Not just because you've already checked which items spark joy,

这不仅是因为你已经检查过 哪些物品能激发欢乐，

but because you probably won't own as much physical clothing.

而是你可能不会拥有 那么多的实体服装。

I'm not just saying this because typically we own more than we need,

我之所以这样说，不只是因为 我们通常会拥有超出需求的东西，

and we actually only wear 20 percent of our wardrobe,

我们实际上只会 穿衣柜中 20％ 的衣服，

but because dematerialization will have taken over fashion.

而是因为非物质化 将取代时尚。

Think about the books that you own, the music that we listen to.

想想你拥有的书， 我们听的音乐。

They are now in the cloud.

它们现在在云端上。

And many of our favorite stores are online,

我们最喜欢的许多商店都在网上，

and this is happening to our clothes too.

我们的衣服也会如此。

Digital versions of physical products

实体产品的数字版本和纯数字产品

and digital-only products are making their way into our lives through gaming,

正在通过游戏、社交媒体和购物 进入我们的生活。

social media and shopping.

This is an Alexander McQueen digital tee that you can download

这是一款 Alexander McQueen的数字T恤，

to an avatar to wear inside a game.

你可以将其下载到头像上 以便在游戏中穿着。

Digital fashion is made of pixels rather than threads,

数字时尚是由像素 而非针线组成，

and it's still a relatively new sector of the virtual goods industry.

它仍然是虚拟商品行业中 一个相对较新的领域。

But in the last five years, it's kind of exploded,

但是在过去的五年中， 它呈爆炸式增长，

and we've seen zeitgeist moments

我们看到了像Fabricant、

from digital-first brands like the Fabricant,

Tribute brand 和 Auroboros

Tribute brand and Auroboros.

等数字优先品牌的时代潮流。

And RTFKT,

还有RTFKT，

who got the world talking about “phygitals:”

它让全世界都在谈论“phygitals”：

physical and digital versions that you buy together.

同时购买物理和数字版本。

And luxury brands are also in this space,

奢侈品牌也进入了这一领域，

like Vuitton, Balenciaga and Gucci,

例如路易威登、巴黎世家和古驰，

and they're doing something surprising at surprising price points.

他们正以惊人价格 做一些令人惊讶的事。

So they're bringing together the worlds of gaming and luxury.

他们将游戏和奢华融合在一起。

Some of these items are less than 20 dollars,

其中一些物品不到 20 美元，

and this Gucci Roblox handbag actually resold for 4,000 dollars,

而这款Gucci Roblox手提包 在Roblox上架仅一小时后，

which is more than the physical one retails for,

就以 4,000 美元的价格转售，

just an hour after it went for sale on Roblox.

超过了实体手袋的零售价。

This is interesting

这很有趣，

because quite often our first luxury purchase is sunglasses or a lipstick.

因为我们第一次购买的奢侈品 通常是太阳镜或口红。

In the kind of near future,

在不久的将来，

and especially for the next generation,

尤其是对于下一代来说

that's not going to be the case.

情况并非如此。

It will be a virtual item that you can wear,

它将是一个你可以佩戴的虚拟物品，

just like that handbag inside a game.

就像游戏中的那个手提包一样。

And if your pockets are deep enough, you can also pay luxury prices.

而且，如果你的口袋足够大， 你也可以付出奢侈的代价。

CryptoPunks and Tiffany last year did a collaboration

where they made phygital pendants, 250 personalized ones,

制作了 250 个个性化phygital吊坠

which were the princely sum of 50,000 dollars.

售价高达 5 万美元。

I'm a fashion academic and innovator,

我是一名时尚学者和创新者，

and I've spent a lot of years researching how and when people adopt new trends,

我花了很多年时间研究 人们如何以及何时接纳新时尚，

whether their dad's sneakers or Snapchat filters.

无论是父亲的运动鞋 又或是Snapchat的滤镜。

And it's kind of ironic because I fell in love with digital fashion,

这有点讽刺， 我爱上了数字时尚的原因，

because I like vintage fashion,

是因为我喜欢复古时装，

and the thought of being able to wear key pieces from fashion history

想到能够穿上时尚史上的经典单品

is something that keeps me awake late at night.

让我彻夜难眠。

This jacket by Mugler has been painstakingly digitized

Mugler 的这件夹克由 Superficial Studio

by Superficial Studio.

进行了数字化处理。

What's super exciting is that we're at the very beginning

非常令人兴奋的是，

我们正处于这场时尚革命的起点，

of this revolution within fashion,

and when it goes mainstream, probably within the next five years,

当它成为主流时， 可能在未来五年内，

it's really going to change not only what we wear,

它不仅会真正改变我们的穿着，

but also how we produce and consume goods, hopefully for the better.

还会改变我们生产和消费商品的方式，

希望能变得更好。

Just because something isn't physical doesn't mean it's not real.

仅仅因为某物不是物理的， 并不意味着它不是真实的。

And just because something is dematerialized

仅仅因为某种东西被非物质化，

doesn't mean it gives you a warm, funny feeling in your stomach

并不意味着当你购买、 拥有它或佩戴它时，

when you buy it or own it or wear it.

它会在你的肚子里 给你一种温暖、滑稽的感觉。

Especially when it looks like this.

特别是当它看起来像这样的时候。

So for digital fashion, there's something really for everybody,

因此，对于数字时尚来说， 每个人都有适合自己的东西，

from sportswear to couture

从运动服到高级时装，

to the kind of straight out ethereal.

再到直截了当的空灵服装。

And when I see pieces like these that are so cool

当我看到这样非常酷的作品

that I want to own them physically,

以至于我想亲自拥有它们时，

I get frustrated because there isn't a word to describe that.

我会感到沮丧， 因为没有一个词可以形容。

So I’ve started calling it “meta-desire.”

所以我开始称其为 “元欲望”。

(Laughter)

（笑声）

And I'm still working on an emoji for it, which I think is very important.

而且我还在为它制作表情符号， 我认为这很重要。

Digital fashion is characterized by infinite creativity.

数字时尚的特点是 无限的创造力。

When you design in the physical dimension,

不幸的是，当你在物理维度上进行设计时，

you unfortunately have constraints like gravity, how a fabric drapes,

你会受到诸如重力、面料的垂坠效果，

perhaps the cost of raw materials.

也许还有原材料成本等限制。

But when you design virtually,

但是，当你进行虚拟设计时，

you have limitless possibilities of say, for example,

你有无限的可能性，

比如说一件连衣裙会是什么样子， 它的性能或功能如何。

what a dress could look like, how it could perform or function.

This is a piece by Institute of Digital Fashion,

这是数字时尚学院的一件作品，

which is part jewelry, part clothing.

它既是珠宝，又是服装。

And in the near future,

在不久的将来，

we have completely new categories of materials and products.

我们将推出全新的材料和产品类别。

And magazines are also using this as well.

杂志也在使用它。

They're adopting digital fashion to make the pages and the fashion

他们正在采用数字时尚

来使页面和时尚 变得更加身临其境。

become more immersive.

But so what?

但是那又怎样？

That's what my mom often asks me.

那是我妈妈经常问我的。

"What's the point of digital fashion?"

“数字时尚的意义何在？”

Well, you have two choices.

好吧，你有两个选择。

You can either wear it on your real self, your physical self,

你可以把它戴在你的真实自我， 你的身体上，

or you can wear it on your digital self.

也可以戴在你的数字自我上。

And gamers have already been doing this for over 25 years.

游戏玩家这样做已经超过 25 年了。

They already understand the value of virtual goods.

他们已经了解虚拟商品的价值。

They've been earning, modifying

他们一直在赚钱、修改，

and putting skins and cosmetics on their characters

给角色配置皮肤和化妆品，

to wear inside games.

让他们在游戏中穿着。

Digital dressing is a thing.

数码着装是一回事。

This is me during the pandemic when I couldn't get to any stores,

这是疫情期间的我， 当时我无法去任何商店，

but I could get a dopamine hit and, of course, share it on social media.

但我可能会受到多巴胺的打击 当然，还可以在社交媒体上分享。

(Laughter)

（笑声）

You guys can try this yourselves if you go to platforms

如果你去像 Dematerialized 或 DressX这样的平台，

like The Dematerialised or DressX.

你们也可以自己试试这个。

And a relatively new company, Zero10, also does this.

而一家相对较新的公司 Zero10 也在这样做。

So digital dressing is when an extra layer,

数字服饰是指在照片 或视频中添加额外的图层，

like an augmented reality, is added on to a photo or a video.

例如增强现实。

And this is something which I call “soft wearables.”

我称之为 “可穿戴软设备”。

So effectively you have a kind of, like a new form of fast fashion,

因此，实际上有一种新的快时尚形式，

because you could update the clothes that you're wearing with new messages,

因为如果你愿意， 你可以每天用新的信息、

slogans on a daily basis if you want.

标语来更新你所穿的衣服。

This was a project from Nike and RTFKT last year,

这是耐克 和RTFKT去年的一个项目，

and something that I'm excited about in the farther future

在更远的将来，令我兴奋的是，

is that we won't need to view this extra digital content

我们不需要通过手机观看 这些额外的数字内容。

through our mobile phone.

It'll actually emit from the smart materials

它实际上会从面料本身的 智能材料中发出。

in the fabrics themselves.

But why do we need digital fashion?

但是为什么我们需要数字时尚？

Well today,

今天，

we already spend one third of our time online.

我们已经有三分之一的时间在上网。

And as we move into the next generation of the internet, known as web3,

当我们进入下一代互联网 即 web3.0 时，

we won't just be on the internet,

我们不仅会上网，

we're actually going to be inside it.

还会进入互联网。

And just like Dolly,

就像多莉一样，

we already curate different aspects of who we are

我们已经为我们展示 自己的每个不同平台

for each of the different platforms that we show ourselves on.

精心策划了自己的不同方面。

But we're not just going to be 2D images

但是，我们不再只是 社交媒体圈子

inside social media circles or squares anymore.

或方块中的二维图像了。

We're actually going to be full-bodied avatars working,

实际上 ，我们将成为在 3D 空间中工作、

shopping, dating even, in 3D spaces.

购物、甚至约会的完整化身。

如果你去韩国，

If you go to South Korea,

the avatar culture is already very well embedded.

头像文化已经深入人心了。

From K-pop brands to digital banking advisors.

从K-pop品牌到数字银行顾问。

They're kind of everywhere.

它们无处不在。

And they have an app called Zepeto.

他们还有一款名为 Zepeto的应用程序。

And this is my Zepeto avatar here, the one in purple.

这是我的 Zepeto 头像，那个紫色的。

This is just a selection of my digital twins,

这只是我的数字双胞胎中的一部分，

the avatars that I use on a daily basis in messaging

我每天在信息中使用这些头像

来传达不同的情感，

to convey different emotions,

also to meet friends and to go to digital events in 3D spaces.

也可以用来结识朋友和 参加三维空间的数字活动。

And you can probably tell

你大概可以看出

that I try to convey different aspects of my personality in my avatars,

我试图在我的头像中传达 我个性的不同方面，

different trends that I want to kind of show,

我想表现出不同的趋势，

and also which tribes I want to belong to.

以及我想加入哪些部落。

But the metaverse that we've all been promised

但是，我们都被承诺的元宇宙实际上 已经有一段时间没有出现了。

isn't actually here for a while yet.

Some people are quite excited that it's not going to be here

有些人对它暂时还不会出现 感到非常兴奋。

for a while yet.

However, it's actually the physical fashion sector

但是， 受数字时尚影响最大的实际上 是实体时尚行业

that could be impacted by digital fashion the most.

你们当中有些人可能听说过 很多关于NFT的负面炒作和情绪

Some of you might have heard a lot of negative hype

and sentiment around NFTs,

non-fungible tokens,

NFT即不可替代的代币，

but actually they are key to the future of digital fashion

但实际上它们是数字时尚 未来的关键，

because they turn a regular file, like a jpeg,

因为它们将像jpeg这样的常规文件 变成了你可以拥有和交易的资产。

into an asset that you can own and that you can trade.

Brands like Roberts Wood, Prada and Diesel have all done this.

罗伯茨·伍德、普拉达 和迪塞尔等品牌都这样做了。

They've all sold phygital items as NFTs.

他们都以NFT的形式出售数字物品。

For us, as consumers, this is really good

作为消费者，对于我们来说， 这确实是件好事，

because we can check to see if something is real or authentic before we buy it.

因为我们可以在购买之前检查 某件东西是真实的或是正品。

Also, once we actually buy it,

此外，一旦我们真正购买了它，

people can see that it's us that owns it on a blockchain.

人们就会在区块链上看到 是我们拥有它。

And for designers, especially emerging ones,

对于设计师， 尤其是新兴设计师来说，

it helps them protect their designs.

它可以帮助他们保护自己的设计。

每当这件作品被转售时， 设计师都会获得特许权使用费。

And each time this piece is resold, the designer gets a royalty fee.

This is going to be a game changer for the fashion sector,

这将改变时尚界的游戏规则，

because it redistributes power and money

因为它将权力和金钱

back towards the original designers and creators.

重新分配给了原创设计师和创作者。

But it's not just about creativity and aesthetics.

但这不仅仅关乎创造力和美学。

Digital fashion could also make us be more sustainable.

数字时尚也可以使我们 更具可持续性。

150 billion garments are manufactured every year,

每年生产 1500 亿件服装，

and many of them are unsold.

其中许多未售出。

This overproduction is unnecessary.

这种生产过剩是不必要的。

And what we need to see more of --

我们需要更多地了解——

and I’m talking specifically to you, fast fashion retailers --

我说的是快时尚零售商——

is that instead of just relying on previous sales history,

不是仅仅依靠以前的销售记录，

you actually showcase digital versions of products

而是在生产产品之前 展示数字版。

before you manufacture them.

US brand Finesse already does this

美国品牌Finesse已经这样做了，

并且在生产过程中没有浪费。

and has no waste in their production processes.

And how about a fashion tool

那么，一款帮助你

that helps you wear that other 80 percent of your wardrobe?

穿上衣橱中另外 80% 衣服的 时尚工具怎么样？

Save Your Wardrobe is an amazing tool that digitizes your wardrobe,

Save Your Wardrobe是一款很棒的工具 ， 它可以数字化你的衣柜，

kind of works a little bit like a fitness tracker,

有点像健身追踪器，

helps you style outfits together and facilitates care and repair,

可以帮助你整合衣服， 便于保养和维修，

so that your items last longer.

从而延长物品的使用寿命。

And it could be a way that you could help reduce the impact

这可能是一种方法，

可以帮助减少每年最终被 填埋的 9200 万吨服装的影响。

of the 92 million tons of clothing that ends up in landfill each year.

So the exciting thing is, the "Clueless" dream closet is actually already here.

因此，令人兴奋的是，“Clueless” 的 梦幻壁橱实际上已经在这里。

(Laughter)

（笑声）最后，

And lastly, e-commerce return rates within fashion

时尚行业的电子商务退货率非常高，

are scarily high, between 40 to 60 percent.

在 40％ 至 60％ 之间。

And this has a real environmental cost.

这会带来真正的环境成本。

再说一遍，如果零售商在我们购买之前

So again, how about if retailers helped us try things digitally

before we purchased them physically?

帮助我们进行数字化尝试， 那会怎么样呢？

John Lewis in the UK uses artificial intelligence

英国的约翰·刘易斯 使用人工智能

to do digital dressing

制作数字服装，

这样消费者可以在购买前先试用。

so that consumers can try before they buy.

And what they've been finding

他们发现，

is that people have been trying over 80 items every time they shop,

人们每次购物都会 尝试 80 多种物品，

and it also makes online shopping much more fun.

这也使在线购物变得更加有趣。

Looking to the future, by 2033,

展望未来，到 2033 年，

你很可能会有Spotify风格的订阅，

it's probably likely that you'll have a Spotify-style subscription

to download the latest fashion to wear on your work hologram calls

下载最新的时装以 在工作全息图通话中穿着，

or to flex on your avatar to a virtual gallery opening.

或者在虚拟画廊开幕时 展示你的头像。

这只是你衣柜里可能少了 很多东西的另外几个原因。

Just another couple of reasons why that wardrobe of yours

might have a lot less in it.

Thank you.

谢谢。

(Applause)

（掌声）