What’s the Point of Digital Fashion? | Karinna Grant | TED

譯者: Lilian Chiu 審譯者: Shelley Tsang 曾雯海

By 2033,

到 2033 年，

you just might have a smaller wardrobe than you have now.

你的衣櫃可能會比現在的更小。

Not just because you've already checked which items spark joy,

不僅是因為你已經確認了 哪些衣物能帶給你快樂，

but because you probably won't own as much physical clothing.

也因為你可能不再會 擁有那麼多的實體衣物。

I'm not just saying this because typically we own more than we need,

我這麼說，不只是因為我們 擁有的通常都多於我們需要的，

and we actually only wear 20 percent of our wardrobe,

衣櫃裡的衣物其實 只有 20％ 會被拿出來穿，

but because dematerialization will have taken over fashion.

也因為去物質化將會主導時尚界。

Think about the books that you own, the music that we listen to.

想想你擁有的書籍、我們聽的音樂。

They are now in the cloud.

它們現在都在雲端。

And many of our favorite stores are online,

且許多我們喜愛的商店都在網路上，

and this is happening to our clothes too.

我們的衣服也會遇到同樣的現象。

Digital versions of physical products

實體產品的數位版本

and digital-only products are making their way into our lives through gaming,

和純數位產品正在進入我們生活，

進入的管道包括遊戲、 社群媒體，及購物。

social media and shopping.

This is an Alexander McQueen digital tee that you can download

這是亞歷山大‧麥昆設計的數位 T 恤，

你可以下載它， 給遊戲中的虛擬化身穿。

to an avatar to wear inside a game.

Digital fashion is made of pixels rather than threads,

數位時尚是由像素 組成的，而不是線，

and it's still a relatively new sector of the virtual goods industry.

在虛擬商品產業中 它還是個相對很新的領域。

But in the last five years, it's kind of exploded,

但在過去的五年中， 它有點爆炸式地成長，

and we've seen zeitgeist moments

我們看到了把數位擺第一的品牌 所創造的時代精神時刻，如：

from digital-first brands like the Fabricant,

Fabricant、Tribute Brand， 以及 Auroboros。

Tribute brand and Auroboros.

And RTFKT,

還有 RTFKT，

who got the world talking about “phygitals:”

它讓全世界開始談論「實體數位」：

physical and digital versions that you buy together.

一併購買的實體和數位版本。

And luxury brands are also in this space,

而奢侈品品牌也涉足這個領域，

like Vuitton, Balenciaga and Gucci,

如路易威登、巴黎世家，和古馳，

and they're doing something surprising at surprising price points.

它們在很驚人的價格點 做出了些很驚人的事。

So they're bringing together the worlds of gaming and luxury.

它們將遊戲和奢侈品的 世界融合在一起。

Some of these items are less than 20 dollars,

這類商品，有的還不到二十美金。

and this Gucci Roblox handbag actually resold for 4,000 dollars,

而這款機器磗塊的古馳手提包

轉售的價格是四千美金，

which is more than the physical one retails for,

比這實體手提包的零售價格還高，

just an hour after it went for sale on Roblox.

而且是在機器磗塊開賣這個 手提包的一個小時後就轉賣。

This is interesting

這很有趣，因為，

because quite often our first luxury purchase is sunglasses or a lipstick.

我們買的第一個奢侈品 通常會是太陽眼鏡或口紅。

In the kind of near future,

在不久的未來， 特別是對下一代來說，

and especially for the next generation,

that's not going to be the case.

他們買的第一個奢侈品會不同， 會是可穿戴的虛擬物品，

It will be a virtual item that you can wear,

just like that handbag inside a game.

如遊戲中的手提包。

And if your pockets are deep enough, you can also pay luxury prices.

如果你的口袋足夠深，

你也可以買價格奢侈的東西。

CryptoPunks and Tiffany last year did a collaboration

CryptoPunks 和蒂芙尼 在去年攜手合作，

where they made phygital pendants, 250 personalized ones,

做了兩百五十個 個人化的實體數位吊墜，

which were the princely sum of 50,000 dollars.

加起來的總價格高達五萬美金。

I'm a fashion academic and innovator,

我是時尚學者和創新者，

and I've spent a lot of years researching how and when people adopt new trends,

我長年在研究人會在何時 用什麼方式跟上新潮流，

whether their dad's sneakers or Snapchat filters.

不論是他們爸爸的運動鞋 還是 Snapchat 的濾鏡。

And it's kind of ironic because I fell in love with digital fashion,

這有點諷刺，我之所以 會愛上數位時尚，

because I like vintage fashion,

是因為我喜歡復古時尚，

and the thought of being able to wear key pieces from fashion history

而想到能夠穿上 時尚歷史上重要的作品，

is something that keeps me awake late at night.

就會讓我晚上睡不著覺。

This jacket by Mugler has been painstakingly digitized

Superficial Studio 精心地將 Mugler 的這款外套數位化。

by Superficial Studio.

What's super exciting is that we're at the very beginning

讓人超興奮的是，我們才處在 時尚界內這場革命的最初期，

of this revolution within fashion,

and when it goes mainstream, probably within the next five years,

當它成為主流時，

這可能會在未來五年內發生，

它將不只會改變我們穿什麼，

it's really going to change not only what we wear,

but also how we produce and consume goods, hopefully for the better.

還會改變我們的生產 和消費商品的方式，

希望是正面的改變。

Just because something isn't physical doesn't mean it's not real.

不是實體的並不表示就不是真的。

And just because something is dematerialized

某樣東西被去物質化，

doesn't mean it gives you a warm, funny feeling in your stomach

並不表示當你購買、 擁有，或穿戴它時，

when you buy it or own it or wear it.

就會有種暖暖的、怪怪的感覺。

Especially when it looks like this.

特別是在它看起來像這樣的情況下。

So for digital fashion, there's something really for everybody,

因此，就數位時尚來說，

有適合每個人的東西， 從運動服裝到高級時裝，

from sportswear to couture

到根本就是超凡脫俗的都有。

to the kind of straight out ethereal.

And when I see pieces like these that are so cool

當我看到像這樣的作品時，

它們好酷，我想擁有它們的實體，

that I want to own them physically,

I get frustrated because there isn't a word to describe that.

而我會很沮喪，

因為沒有字詞可以形容。

So I’ve started calling it “meta-desire.”

所以我開始稱它為「元渴望」。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

And I'm still working on an emoji for it, which I think is very important.

我還在為它做表情符號， 我認為這是很重要的。

Digital fashion is characterized by infinite creativity.

數位時尚的特色是無限的創意。

When you design in the physical dimension,

當你在實體空間中做設計時，

很不幸，你會受到限制，

you unfortunately have constraints like gravity, how a fabric drapes,

比如地心引力、

布料垂墜的方式、 也許還有原料的成本。

perhaps the cost of raw materials.

But when you design virtually,

但是，當你以虛擬方式設計時，

you have limitless possibilities of say, for example,

你有無限的可能性，

比如：衣服的外觀可能是什麼 樣子、它有什麼效果或功能。

what a dress could look like, how it could perform or function.

This is a piece by Institute of Digital Fashion,

這是數位時尚學院的作品， 它是半首飾半服裝。

which is part jewelry, part clothing.

And in the near future,

在不久的將來，我們會有 全新的材料和產品類別。

we have completely new categories of materials and products.

And magazines are also using this as well.

而雜誌也在用。

它們採用數位時尚， 讓網頁和時尚變得更有沉浸感。

They're adopting digital fashion to make the pages and the fashion

become more immersive.

But so what?

但，那又怎樣？我媽常這樣問我：

That's what my mom often asks me.

"What's the point of digital fashion?"

「數位時尚有什麼意義？」

Well, you have two choices.

嗯，你有兩個選擇。

You can either wear it on your real self, your physical self,

你可以把它穿在你自己 真實、實體的身體上，

or you can wear it on your digital self.

或穿在你的數位化身身上。

And gamers have already been doing this for over 25 years.

遊戲玩家這麼做已經 有至少二十五年之久了。

他們已經了解虛擬商品的價值。

They already understand the value of virtual goods.

They've been earning, modifying

他們一直在賺取、修改，

and putting skins and cosmetics on their characters

和套用造型和化妝品，

用在遊戲中的角色上。

to wear inside games.

Digital dressing is a thing.

真的有「數位穿搭」這種事情。

This is me during the pandemic when I couldn't get to any stores,

這是疫情期間的我， 那時我無法前往任何商店，

but I could get a dopamine hit and, of course, share it on social media.

但我可以來點多巴胺，當然， 也可以在社群媒體上分享它。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

各位可以自己去試試看，只要到

You guys can try this yourselves if you go to platforms

like The Dematerialised or DressX.

Dematerialised 或 DressX 這類平台就可以了。

而相對較新的公司 Zero10 也在做這個。

And a relatively new company, Zero10, also does this.

So digital dressing is when an extra layer,

因此，數位穿搭就是把額外的一層，

like an augmented reality, is added on to a photo or a video.

比如擴增實境，加到照片或影片上。

And this is something which I call “soft wearables.”

這是我所謂的「軟性穿戴品」。

So effectively you have a kind of, like a new form of fast fashion,

所以實際上你就有了

一種快時尚的新形式。

because you could update the clothes that you're wearing with new messages,

因為如果你想要的話，你就可以每天

把你的穿著更新， 放上新的訊息、標語。

slogans on a daily basis if you want.

This was a project from Nike and RTFKT last year,

這是去年 Nike 和 RTFKT 合作的一個計畫，

and something that I'm excited about in the farther future

在更遠的未來，讓我 感到很興奮的一件事

is that we won't need to view this extra digital content

是我們不再需要透過手機 來看這些額外的數位內容。

through our mobile phone.

It'll actually emit from the smart materials

這些內容會從布料中的 智慧材料直接發射出來。

in the fabrics themselves.

But why do we need digital fashion?

但，我們為什麼需要數位時尚？

Well today,

嗯，現今，

we already spend one third of our time online.

我們已經有三分之一的 時間都在上網。

And as we move into the next generation of the internet, known as web3,

隨著我們進入下一代的網際網路，

也就是 Web3，

we won't just be on the internet,

我們將不只會上網， 我們真的會進到網路裡面。

we're actually going to be inside it.

And just like Dolly,

就像多莉一樣，

we already curate different aspects of who we are

我們已經在能展現自己的不同平台上，

for each of the different platforms that we show ourselves on.

精心打造我們不同的面向。

But we're not just going to be 2D images

但是，我們將不只是

inside social media circles or squares anymore.

社群媒體圈或方格中的平面影像。

We're actually going to be full-bodied avatars working,

我們實際上會成為 全身的虛擬化身，

在三維空間中工作、 購物，甚至約會。

shopping, dating even, in 3D spaces.

If you go to South Korea,

如果你去南韓，

the avatar culture is already very well embedded.

虛擬化身文化已經非常深入人心了，

From K-pop brands to digital banking advisors.

從韓流品牌到數位銀行顧問。

They're kind of everywhere.

他們可說無所不在。

And they have an app called Zepeto.

他們有個應用程式叫做 Zepeto 。

And this is my Zepeto avatar here, the one in purple.

這是我的 Zepeto 虛擬化身，紫色的那個。

This is just a selection of my digital twins,

畫面上這些是我的 其中一些數位雙胞胎，

the avatars that I use on a daily basis in messaging

我每天都會用這些虛擬化身，

用在訊息中，以表達不同的情緒，

to convey different emotions,

also to meet friends and to go to digital events in 3D spaces.

也用來和朋友見面和參加 三維空間中的數位活動。

And you can probably tell

各位可能看得出來， 我用我的虛擬化身

that I try to convey different aspects of my personality in my avatars,

來表達我個性的不同面向、

different trends that I want to kind of show,

我想呈現的不同風潮，

and also which tribes I want to belong to.

以及我希望歸屬於哪些群體。

But the metaverse that we've all been promised

但是我們所期望的元宇宙

isn't actually here for a while yet.

還要一段時間才會到來。

Some people are quite excited that it's not going to be here

有些人很興 奮，但 短時間內它還不會出現。

for a while yet.

However, it's actually the physical fashion sector

然而，被數位時尚影響 最大的其實是實體時尚業。

that could be impacted by digital fashion the most.

Some of you might have heard a lot of negative hype

在座有些人可能曾聽過關於 NFT 的負面宣傳和感受，

and sentiment around NFTs,

non-fungible tokens,

NFT 即非同質化代幣，

but actually they are key to the future of digital fashion

但它們其實是數位時尚未來的關鍵，

because they turn a regular file, like a jpeg,

因為它們能將普通檔案， 如 jpeg 檔，轉換

into an asset that you can own and that you can trade.

成為你可以擁有和交易的資產。

Brands like Roberts Wood, Prada and Diesel have all done this.

Roberts Wood、普拉達， 和 Diesel 等品牌都有這麼做。

They've all sold phygital items as NFTs.

它們都已經在以 NFT 的形式 銷售實體數位物品。

For us, as consumers, this is really good

對於我們消費者來說，

這真的很棒，因為我們可以 在購買物品前先確認其真實性。

because we can check to see if something is real or authentic before we buy it.

Also, once we actually buy it,

此外，一旦我們真的買了，

people can see that it's us that owns it on a blockchain.

大家就可以在區塊鏈上 看到它的所有人是我們。

And for designers, especially emerging ones,

對於設計師來說， 尤其是剛出道的設計師，

it helps them protect their designs.

他們的設計能得到更多保護。

每當作品被再次轉手出售，

And each time this piece is resold, the designer gets a royalty fee.

設計師就會收到權利金。

This is going to be a game changer for the fashion sector,

這將會改變時尚業，因為 它將權力和金錢重新分配

because it redistributes power and money

back towards the original designers and creators.

回去給原始的設計師和創作者。

But it's not just about creativity and aesthetics.

但重點不只是創意和美學。

Digital fashion could also make us be more sustainable.

數位時尚也能讓我們更永續。

150 billion garments are manufactured every year,

每年衣服的產量是一千五百億件，

and many of them are unsold.

其中許多都沒有賣掉。

This overproduction is unnecessary.

這種過度生產是不必要的。

And what we need to see more of --

我們需要看到更多——

and I’m talking specifically to you, fast fashion retailers --

快時尚零售商，我是在對你們說——

is that instead of just relying on previous sales history,

不要只仰賴過去的銷售記錄，

you actually showcase digital versions of products

而是要實際上在製造產品前 就展示出產品的數位版本。

before you manufacture them.

US brand Finesse already does this

美國品牌 Finesse 已經做到了這一點，

並且在生產過程中都沒有浪費。

and has no waste in their production processes.

And how about a fashion tool

如果有一種時尚工具，

that helps you wear that other 80 percent of your wardrobe?

能幫你穿著你衣櫃裡 沒穿到的那 80%，如何？

Save Your Wardrobe is an amazing tool that digitizes your wardrobe,

Save Your Wardrobe 是個很讚的工具，

能將你的衣櫃數位化，

kind of works a little bit like a fitness tracker,

運作方式有點像是健身追蹤器 ，

helps you style outfits together and facilitates care and repair,

幫你做服裝搭配，也讓你 更容易照顧和修復你的物品，

so that your items last longer.

讓它們能用得更久。

And it could be a way that you could help reduce the impact

你可能可以用這種方式 來協助減少每年

of the 92 million tons of clothing that ends up in landfill each year.

送到掩埋場的九千兩百萬 公噸衣服所造成的衝擊。

So the exciting thing is, the "Clueless" dream closet is actually already here.

所以，讓人興奮的是，

夢幻衣櫥應用程式 Clueless 已經問世了。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

And lastly, e-commerce return rates within fashion

最後，

時尚界的電子商務， 退貨率還高得嚇人，

are scarily high, between 40 to 60 percent.

在 40% 到 60% 之間。

And this has a real environmental cost.

這背後的環保成本很可觀。

所以，同樣的， 如果零售商能協助我們

So again, how about if retailers helped us try things digitally

在實體購買之前先以 數位方式試穿，如何？

before we purchased them physically?

John Lewis in the UK uses artificial intelligence

英國的品牌約翰‧路易斯 用人工智慧來做數位穿著，

to do digital dressing

so that consumers can try before they buy.

讓消費者可以在購買之前試穿。

And what they've been finding

而他們發現，大家每次購物時 都會試穿超過八十件物品，

is that people have been trying over 80 items every time they shop,

and it also makes online shopping much more fun.

這也讓線上購物變得更有意思。

Looking to the future, by 2033,

展望未來，到 2033 年，

你很可能會用 Spotify 的訂閱方式

it's probably likely that you'll have a Spotify-style subscription

to download the latest fashion to wear on your work hologram calls

下載最新的時尚，

在全息投影的工作視訊會議上穿，

or to flex on your avatar to a virtual gallery opening.

或在出席虛擬畫廊開幕活動時 讓你的虛擬化身穿出來秀一下。

Just another couple of reasons why that wardrobe of yours

以上只是幾個理由， 說明為什麼你的衣櫥

裡面的東西可能會少很多。

might have a lot less in it.

Thank you.

謝謝。

(Applause)

（掌聲）