How to Choose Clothes for Longevity, Not the Landfill | Diarra Bousso | TED

翻译人员: Jinnie Sun 校对人员: suya f.

Isn’t online shopping just amazing?

在线购物不是很棒吗？

I think we've truly mastered the art of retail therapy

我认为我们已经真正 掌握了零售疗法的艺术，

without ever leaving the house.

甚至无需走出家门。

I mean, who needs a single, carefully selected jacket

我的意思是，谁还需要 一件精心挑选的夹克，

when you can order a jacket collection, pays zero shipping fees,

当你能订购一个夹克系列，无需付运费，

try it all at home and return the ones you don't like?

在家里试穿它们

然后退回那些你不喜欢的？

And let's not forget the thrill of unboxing an outfit

而且，我们不要忘记

拆开一件比午餐还便宜的衣服的快感。

that costed less than your lunch.

So great, right?

太棒了，对吧？

Well, there is a hidden cost to this level of convenience,

不过，这种程度的便利是有隐性代价的，

and Mother Earth is not so proud.

而且地球母亲并不那么自豪。

In the little time it took me to introduce this topic,

在我介绍这个话题的这么短的时间内，

40 garbage trucks full of clothes went to a landfill.

40 辆装满衣服的垃圾车 进入了垃圾填埋场。

By the end of today, that number will be 86,000.

等到今天结束， 这个数字将达到 86000。

That's one garbage truck every second.

那相当于每秒一辆垃圾车。

And this is because fashion

这是因为时尚

is one of the most polluting industries in the world.

是世界上造成污染最严重的行业之一。

This waste is rooted in overconsumption and overproduction.

这种浪费的根源是过度消费和过度生产。

I'm one of the many entrepreneurs working on this problem.

我是研究这个问题的众多企业家之一。

I actually didn't intend to work in fashion.

其实我本来不打算在时尚界工作。

I started my career on Wall Street in my early 20s,

我二十多岁时在华尔街开始职业生涯，

was obsessed with being rich,

痴迷于发财，

and back then I probably preferred fashion brands

那时我可能更喜欢

that supported my wasteful shopping habits.

鼓励我浪费的购物习惯的时装品牌。

But in July 2012,

但是在 2012 年 7 月，

my life completely changed

我的人生彻底改变了，

after a life-threatening accident that left me in a coma.

在一次危及生命的、 使我陷入昏迷的事故之后，

When I woke up in a blank room with a blank memory,

当我记忆空白地在一个 空房间里醒来时，

I had the opportunity to start over.

我得到了重新开始的机会。

I no longer saw life as a race to just consume and accumulate things

我不再将生活视为

一场仅仅旨在消费和囤积东西的竞赛，

but rather felt a deep desire for meaning and impact.

而是感受到了一种 对意义和影响的深切渴望。

As I recovered, surrounded by my family in Senegal,

当我康复，在塞内加尔 被家人包围时，

I was fascinated by a culture of longevity

我被一种长期主义的文化所吸引，

where philosophically it's not really about the word "sustainability,"

从哲学上讲，它不是真的 关于“可持续性”一词，

but the active acts of sustaining everything we love:

而是保存我们所爱的 一切东西的积极行为：

traditions,

传统、

resources,

资源、

culture.

文化。

In our customs, clothing was created to last.

在我们的习俗中，服装 被发明出来应是耐用的。

Imagine my grandma,

想象一下我的奶奶，

who rocked the same dresses at 102 years old

她在 102 岁时穿的衣服

as when she was 50.

和 50 岁时的一样。

Styled differently, of course.

当然，穿起来风格不同。

Here I'm a cute 12-year-old wearing a dress made from her scarf.

照片里，我是一个可爱的 12 岁孩子，

穿着一件用她围巾做成的连衣裙。

Every time I head back to the car,

每次我回到车里，

my mom always hands me pieces from her closet,

妈妈总会递给我件她衣橱里的衣服，

wrap skirts and dresses that can be adjusted to fit like a dream.

裹身裙和连衣裙，它们可以 被调整得完美适合我。

Like this dress she wore 20 years ago.

比如这件她 20 年前穿的裙子。

See, growing up, getting a new outfit was not really an impulse purchase,

看，长大后，获得一套新衣服

并不得是一个冲动的消费，

but rather a very intentional process

而可以是一个刻意为之的过程，

rooted in love and longevity.

根植于爱与时光之中。

You'd go to the market,

你可以去市场，

get just the right amount of fabric needed,

买到刚好满足需求的量的面料，

and then work with a local artisan to get your clothes made to order.

然后与当地工匠合作，定做衣服。

Styles were often convertible and adjustable

款式通常是可转换且可调整的，

so as to fit you

以适应你

across different body changes over time.

不同时间的身体变化情况。

And then at the end, we'd just pass it down to someone else.

并且到最后，我们会把它传给别人。

The concept of waste wasn't even conceivable for us.

对我们来说，浪费的概念 甚至不是容易察觉的。

See, sustaining things is not just what we do.

保存东西的意义不仅是行为本身。

It's a love language about who we are.

这是一种关于我们是谁的爱的语言。

I decided to channel this inspiration to create my own fashion brand, Diarrablu,

我决定利用这个灵感

来创建自己的时装品牌Diarrablu，

with the goal to produce clothing more responsibly.

旨在更负责任地生产服装。

Now I understand that in order to reduce waste,

现在我明白，为了减少浪费，

we need to encourage conscious consumption

我们需要鼓励有意识的消费，

in a way that works for the modern customer.

并且是以适合现代消费者的方式。

A customer who wants more choices

一个想要更多选择的，

and the ability to act on their preferences.

想要能根据自己喜好行事的消费者。

Over the last three years,

在过去的三年中，

I've identified three key learnings

我确定了三个关键的经验教训，

that I believe can be applied to the broader fashion industry

我认为这些经验可以 应用于更大的时尚行业，

in order to be more sustainable.

以提高可持续性。

One, we can survey customers online

第一，我们可以在线上调查客户想法，

to cocreate designs they actually want to consume or purchase.

共同创造出他们真正 想要消费或购买的设计。

Two, we can produce consciously,

第二，我们可以有意识地生产，

on demand or based on preorders

按需生产，也可以根据 预售情况进行生产，

to reduce waste.

以减少浪费。

And three, we can actively mitigate returns

第三，我们可以主动地减少退货

to reduce overconsumption.

以减少过度消费。

I truly believe that people are more likely

我真的相信，人们会更可能

to keep their clothing for years, if not decades,

将自己的衣服保留数年甚至数十年，

if they contributed to the design of that clothing.

如果他们为服装的设计做出了贡献。

Companies would make better design decisions

公司可以做出更好的设计决策，

if they actually asked the customers what they wanted.

如果他们真的去询问客户想要什么。

This is why I've been leveraging our online communities,

这就是为什么我一直在 利用我们的在线社区，

and any company can do this,

并且任何公司都可以做到这一点，

using newsletter, social media, SMS

利用资讯邮件、社交媒体、短信

can engage with customers

都可以与消费者沟通，

not only to learn about their preferences,

不仅旨在了解他们的偏好，

but to create a sense of ownership.

而且要营造一种主人翁意识。

Here we approach marketing not like a pitch,

我们达到营销的方式不是推销，

but rather a dialogue.

而是对话。

The message being, "We are cocreating a responsible future together,"

传达的信息是：“我们正在 共同创造一个负责任的未来”，

rather than, "You're just buying my products."

而不是“你只是在购买我的产品”。

At Diarrablu, in order to do this and streamline the process,

在Diarrablu，为了做到 这一点并简化流程，

I use math equations, and lately AI,

我使用数学方程式， 最近也用人工智能，

mixed with my hand drawings,

再加上我的手绘，

to create unique textile prints.

来创作独特的印花图案。

Once we apply them on garments digitally,

只要我们在电脑上 将它们应用于服装上，

we are able to show them on social media without creating any samples.

就可以在不制作任何样品的情况下 在社交媒体上展示它们。

We've made this process so efficient

我们已经使这个过程非常高效，

that we can create hundreds of print iterations per day,

以至于我们每天可以创建数百次迭代，

show them on different body shapes and ethnicities,

在不同体型和种族的人上展示它们，

and within 24 hours we know exactly what to produce.

并且能在 24 小时内 确切地知道要生产什么。

Textiles are then printed digitally,

接着，在纺织品上进行数码印刷，

which can be done in small batches, compared to screen printing.

与丝网印刷相比，数码印刷 可以进行小批量的印刷。

Digital printing is also a more sustainable option

数码印刷也是一种更可持续的选择，

by using less energy and creating a smaller carbon footprint.

通过减少能源消耗，减少碳足迹。

Companies in the US, like Finesse,

像Finesse这样的美国公司，

also use a crowdsourcing model,

也使用众包模式，

with designs created by AI

其设计由人工智能生成，

in order to produce in small batches and reduce waste.

目的是小批量地生产 并减少浪费。

Another retailer, Stitch Fix,

另一家零售商Stitch Fix

relies heavily on polls to understand customer preferences

很大程度上依赖民意调查 来了解客户喜好，

in order to better manage inventory.

以便更好地管理库存。

For me, polling was a way to figure out

对我来说，民意调查是一种弄清楚

what to actually produce with limited resources,

在有限的资源下要实际生产 什么产品的一种方式，

because when I started,

因为当我刚起步的时候，

I didn't have the finances to just produce inventory and guess.

我没有足够的资金来生产存货 然后猜测消费者喜欢哪些。

On the business side,

在商业方面，

I've learned that the polls are directly correlated to sales.

我了解到民意调查 与销售量直接相关。

Our data for the past three years shows that our bestsellers

我们过去三年的数据 表明我们的热销款

were always the winning styles during the polls, and vice versa.

总是在民意调查中 获胜的款式，反之亦然。

Like this beautiful print photographed in the Maldives last year.

比如去年在马尔代夫 拍摄的这款精美印花。

Overall, crowdsourcing the design process

总体而言，众包设计过程

is a powerful tool to limit overproduction.

是限制生产过剩的有力工具。

The next learning was conscious production.

下一个的经验是有意识的生产。

And this can be achieved multiple ways.

这可以通过多种方式实现。

For Diarrablu, we currently make all our garments to order

在Diarrablu，我们目前 所有的服装都是

by Senegalese artisans,

由塞内加尔的工匠定做的，

and this is like how I used to get my clothes made growing up.

这就和我以前成长中 做衣服的方式一样。

This means no overproduction.

这意味着不会过度生产。

Our only stock is from online returns.

我们仅有的库存来自在线退货。

By producing garments on demand this way,

通过这种方式按需生产服装，

using the top prints from crowdsourcing,

使用来自众包的最受欢迎的印花，

we are able to reduce textile waste by over 60 percent.

我们能够将纺织品 浪费减少 60％ 以上。

However, it’s not always possible for every company

但是，并非所有公司

to produce on demand.

都能做到按需生产。

There is a financial and operational aspect

财务和运营方面

that can make it challenging.

可能使其具有挑战性。

A great alternative is taking preorders

一个不错的替代选项是开放预售

and negotiating with factories on minimums,

并与工厂就最低产量进行谈判，

something we are considering as well for the long term.

从长远来看，我们也在考虑这一选择。

Overall, conscious production will help limit excess inventory,

总的来说，有意识的生产 将有助于限制库存过剩，

which is an issue for many fashion companies today.

这是当今许多时装公司面临的问题。

The third idea is actively mitigating returns.

第三个想法是主动地减少退货。

According to the Coresight Insight,

根据Coresight Insight （一家零售业相关的咨询公司），

the return rate for online clothing is 24.4 percent in 2023,

2023 年，网购服装的 退货率为 24.4％，

and one of the big reasons is free shipping on returns,

其中一个重要原因是退货免运费，

which incentivizes overconsumption.

这会刺激过度消费。

However, recently big groups like Zara, JCPenney

但是，最近，像Zara、 JCPenney这样的大企业

have been starting to charge return shipping fees

开始收取退货运费

or restocking fees

或补货费，

in order to limit waste.

以限制浪费。

We also charge return shipping fees,

我们也收取退货运费，

and the goal is to encourage you to only order what you need.

目的是鼓励你们 只下单需要的商品。

However, I believe that to truly limit overconsumption,

但是，我认为， 要真正限制过度消费，

we need to create a mindset shift around returns

我们需要转变在退货 这件事上的思维方式，

that involves the customer,

且需要让消费者一起改变，

and communicating that with the customer before even an order is shipped.

也需要在订单发货 之前就与客户进行沟通。

This can require difficult conversations sometimes.

有时这可能需要艰难的对话。

For example, when a customer orders multiple sizes of the same item,

例如，当买家订购了 多种尺寸的同一款商品时，

we simply don't fulfill the order.

我们根本不配送订单。

We take the opportunity to kindly reach out,

我们会借此机会亲切地去沟通，

express our commitment to sustainability

表达我们对可持续发展的决心，

and ask them to join us and support this mission.

并邀请他们加入我们 一起支持这一使命。

We explain the impact of ordering duplicates

我们会解释订购多件相同商品的影响，

and then provide them all the support they need

然后提供他们需要的所有支持，

to figure out the perfect size,

来确定所需的完美尺寸，

so they can narrow their selection.

这样他们就可以缩小选择范围。

I always get a big smile on my face every time I get a notification

每当我得知客户被这些电子邮件激励时，

that a customer was inspired by these emails.

我的脸上总会有一个灿烂的微笑。

Really my goal is to make sure

实际上，我的目标是确保

that they don't order duplicates in general,

他们总是不会订购重复的商品，

no matter where they shop.

无论是在哪里购物。

So far, the returns approach that we've been implementing

到目前为止，我们在实施的退货方法

has been very successful.

非常成功。

Our return rate on our website is 12 percent, half of the industry.

我们网站上的退货率 是 12 ％，是行业的一半。

And by organizing an annual outlet sale focused on sustainability,

加以通过组织注重可持续性的 年度折扣活动，

we've been able to sell three quarters of that stock in the last three years.

在过去三年中，我们已经能够 出售库存的四分之三。

My journey with Diarrablu has shown me

我在Diarrablu的经历向我表明，

that fashion can be approached responsibly,

我们可以负责任地对待时尚，

and these ideas can be applied by many companies.

这些想法可以被许多公司应用。

These learnings are not great just for the planet,

这些知识不仅对地球有利，

they are also powerful drivers of growth and profitability.

而且能强力推动增长和盈利能力。

In the last three years,

在过去的三年中，

we've seen our revenues grow 35x,

我们的收入增长了 35 倍，

with very minimal inventory and healthy profit margins.

同时库存非常少，利润率也很高。

This was my first artwork post-accident,

这是我事故后的第一幅作品，

a self-portrait titled "Walking to a New Beginning."

一幅名为“走向新起点”的自画像。

I hope it can inspire you to journey together

我希望它能激励你们一同前进，

towards a more sustainable fashion future.

迈向一个更可持续的时尚未来。

At the end, I was given a second chance to be alive,

最后，我曾获得了 第二次活下来的机会，

and that instilled in me a deep desire

这激发了我深切的渴望，

to not only sustain my health

不仅要维持自己的生命，

but also our shared resources,

而且还有我们共同的资源，

a culture of love,

爱的文化，

and most importantly,

最重要的是，

the gift of life on this precious planet

在这个珍贵星球上的礼物——生命，

we take so much for granted.

我们对其太过理所当然的生命。

Thank you.

谢谢。

(Applause)

（掌声）