Richard Thompson Ford: A tailored history of who wears what -- and why | TED

Transcriber:

Translator: Fatiya Azizah Reviewer: Reno Kanti Riananda

Tahun 1565, seorang pria bernama Richard Walweyn ditahan di London

karena memakai sesuatu yang dicap oleh pemerintah

In 1565, a man named Richard Walweyn was arrested in London

sebagai “sesuatu yang mengerikan

dan sangat memalukan berbentuk sepasang celana ketat.”

for wearing what the authorities described

(Tertawa)

as a “very monstrous

Untuk anda yang tidak memilikinya,

and great outrageous pair of trunk hose.”

yang dimaksud adalah celana gembung,

yang populer di kalangan pria di era Renaisans Inggris.

(Laughter)

For those of you who don't already have a pair of these in your closet,

Mereka bisa mendatangkan petaka.

trunk hose are these puffy trousers,

and they were all the rage in men's fashion in Renaissance England.

Celana milik Walweyn disita oleh pemerintah

dan dipamerkan di ruang publik,

But they could get you into trouble.

Walweyn had his pants confiscated by the authorities

sebagai “contoh kebodohan ekstrim.”

(Tertawa)

and exhibited in a public place,

Hukum seperti ini tidak hanya ada di Inggris era Tudor.

as, I quote, "an example of extreme folly."

Faktanya, para polisi mode banyak ditemukan di seluruh Eropa

(Laughter)

Laws like this weren't unique to Tudor-era England.

pada periode ini.

Di Inggris, Prancis, Spanyol

In fact, the fashion police were hard at work all over Europe

dan di seluruh kota di semenanjung Italia.

Pemerintah mengatur hukum mengenai cara berpakaian,

at this period in history.

In England, France, Spain

kadang hingga lusinan dalam setahun,

and in cities up and down the Italian peninsula.

untuk mengikuti perubahan mode yang terus menerus.

The authorities were passing laws about what people could wear,

Oke, saya tahu apa yang anda pikirkan,

sometimes dozens in a single year,

Wah, sejarah yang menarik.

in order to keep up with ever changing fashions.

Namun, apa artinya hal tersebut bagi kita sekarang?

Itu seperti pertumpahan darah, atau peradilan melalui cobaan.

Now, OK, I imagine you're all thinking,

well, that's an interesting history lesson.

Dan bukan hal yang umum di masyarakat modern.

But what does it have to do with us today?

That's like bloodletting or trial by ordeal.

Namun, sebenarnya kita melakukannya.

Bahkan di abad 21,

It's not the sort of thing we do in today's enlightened society.

orang kehilangan pekerjaan,

anak-anak dipulangkan dari sekolah,

But actually we do.

orang-orang diturunkan dari pesawat dan kendaraan umum,

In fact, even in the 21st century,

people regularly lose their jobs,

bahkan dipenjarakan akibat pakaian yang mereka kenakan.

kids are sent home from school,

people are kept off airplanes and other types of public transportation,

Beberapa contoh.

Tahun 2015, seorang siswi SMA di Kentucky bernama Stephanie Dunn

and sometimes people are even jailed for what they're wearing.

dipulangkan dari sekolah

A couple of examples.

karena memakai atasan yang terbuka

In 2015, a high school student in Kentucky named Stephanie Dunn

yang memperlihatkan tulang selangkanya.

Tahun 2012,

was sent home from school

for wearing a scandalously revealing top

seorang hakim di Alabama memenjarakan seseorang

that revealed her collarbones.

karena memakai celana yang merosot.

And in 2012,

an Alabama judge sentenced someone to jail

Katanya, “Anda menghina pengadilan,”

“karena Anda memperlihatkan pantat di pengadilan.”

for wearing sagging pants.

"You are in contempt of court," the judge said,

Saya profesor hukum, saya berurusan dengan hak masyarakat

"because you showed your butt in court."

dan keadilan rasial serta kesetaraan gender.

Sepanjang karir saya,

I’m a law professor, and I work on questions of civil rights

saya sering dikejutkan dengan banyaknya perselisihan hukum

yang berkaitan dengan pakaian.

and racial justice and gender equity.

And over the course of my career,

Semua gugatan mengenai pakaian dan cara berpakaian ini membuat saya berpikir

I've been surprised at just how many legal disputes

involve what people are wearing.

urusan berpakaian ini

And all of these lawsuits over dress and dress codes got me thinking

lebih rumit daripada kelihatannya.

Saya menelusuri sejarah aturan dan hukum mengenai berpakaian

that there's a lot more going on with our attire

than just making a fashion statement.

untuk menemukan apa akar masalahnya.

So I decided to look into the history of rules and laws around clothing

Penelusuran ini membawa saya ke akhir abad pertengahan.

Aturan dan hukum seputar berpakaian

to try to figure out what's really at stake.

dimulai seiring dengan berkembangnya perkotaan

And my research took me all the way back to the late Middle Ages.

saat orang-orang bertemu satu sama lain

dan butuh menilai orang dengan cepat.

I found that these kinds of laws and rules

really got started with the growth of cities

Cara berpakaian menjadi jalan pintas untuk menilai status seseorang.

when strangers began to come together

and needed a way to size each other up quickly and on sight.

Para elit menggunakan cara berpakaian

untuk menegaskan superioritas di antara masyarakat

And fashion became a kind of shorthand for status and identity and belonging.

serta status dan posisi mereka.

Orang biasa menggunakan mode

The elite used fashion

untuk menantang pemerintah atau menaikkan status sosial mereka.

in order to assert their social superiority

and high status and position.

And the average person used fashion

Cara berpakaian menjadi semacam jaminan,

as a way to challenge authority or to climb the social ladder.

dan menggunakan jenis yang salah bisa dianggap sebagai bentuk penipuan.

Contohnya, seorang tokokh dari Firenze, Cosimo de’ Medici,

Fashion was a type of credential,

pernah berkata, “Priayi dapat tercipta dari 1,8 meter sutra merah.”

and wearing the wrong clothing could be considered a type of fraud.

For instance, the Florentine patriarch, Cosimo de' Medici,

Kekhawatiran mengenai kesalahan penggunaan mode berpakaian ini

once said, "One can make a gentleman from two yards of red silk."

membuat para elit menciptakan hukum dimana hanya mereka yang bisa menggunakan

And this worry about the fraudulent use of fashion

pakaian kelas atas yang mewah.

led the elite to pass laws that held that only they could wear

Perhiasan, batu berharga, bulu, dan sutra merah

oleh hukum dibatasi hanya untuk para aristokrat dan anggota kerajaan.

the most high status and luxurious fashions,

so things like jewels, precious metals, fur and red silk

Sebenarnya, tidak begitu berbeda dengan kondisi saat ini.

were restricted by law to the aristocracy and royalty.

Bahkan hari ini, kita menggunakan cara berpakaian

untuk menunjukan identitas, status, dan kepemilikan.

And in a way, it's not all that different today.

Apakah itu mode tingkat tinggi ala Madison Avenue

Even today, we used clothing and fashion

as a way to signal identity and status and belonging,

maupun gaya edgy budaya jalanan perkotaan.

Jadi, tidak begitu mengherankan jika kita menilai satu sama lain

whether it's the expensive high fashions you might find on Madison Avenue

or the edgy styles of an urban street culture.

berdasarkan apa yang kita kenakan.

So maybe it's not surprising that we also judge each other in part

Masalahnya adalah kita tidak selalu pandai bergaya.

Kita bisa membuat kesalahan fatal dengan konsekuensi nyata.

based on what we're wearing.

The problem is that we're not always very good at it.

Tidak banyak masalah ketika berurusan dengan orang yang setara.

We could make serious mistakes that can have real consequences.

Saya tidak pandai menilai pakaian profesor,

So it works pretty good when we’re dealing with people who are a lot like ourselves.

pengacara, atau seniman di kota-kota besar.

So I'm not bad at evaluating the wardrobes of college professors,

Namun, kita tidak begitu ramah ketika berurusan dengan orang-orang

lawyers, artsy types who live in big cities.

yang berkebalikan dengan kita.

Contohnya begini,

But we're not so good when it comes to dealing with people

Murid lama saya,

orang pertama di keluarganya yang kuliah, menceritakan ini.

from other walks of life.

Dia mendapat jadwal wawancara kerja, dan ia sangat menginginkan pekerjaan ini,

Here's an example.

A former student of mine,

lalu Ia memakai pakaian terbaiknya ke wawancara tersebut.

who was the first in her family to attend college, told me this.

She got a job interview, and she really wanted the job,

Masalahnya, ketika ia sampai,

seseorang berkata pakaiannya seperti pakaian pesta,

and so she wore her very best dress to the interview.

Problem was when she got there,

ia dikira sengaja memakainya karena mau pergi ke klab

the other people in the office thought her dress looked like a party dress,

malam itu juga,

dan tidak serius dengan pekerjaannya.

Mereka salah memahami pakaiannya dan salah paham terhadap motivasinya.

so they thought she was dressed up to go clubbing afterwards,

later in the evening,

Masalah lainnya adalah gagasan kita mengenai profesionalisme

and wasn't that serious about the job.

They misread her clothing and therefore they misread her motivations.

adalah memisahkan sebuah kelompok besar

dengan profesi mereka.

Another problem is that a lot of our ideas about professionalism

Hasilnya, kelompok ini kesulitan

menemukan gaya yang profesional dan tepat untuk mereka.

were established when large groups of people

were excluded from the professions.

Hillary Clinton dikritik karena mengenakan pakaian formal dengan celana.

And as a consequence, those groups have a harder time

finding something that looks professional and is appropriate for them.

Bill Clinton tidak mendapat masalah ini.

Perempuan kulit berwarna kerap dirugikan oleh kode kerapihan berpakaian

Just think of all the grief Hillary Clinton got about her pantsuits.

Bill Clinton never had those problems.

yang didasari pada tekstur rambut orang kulit putih pada umumnya.

And women of color often suffer under dress and grooming codes

Banyak tempat kerja yang masih melarang kepangan rambut,

that were based on the hair texture common to white people.

gaya yang paling sesuai dengan tekstur rambut orang Afrika-Amerka.

So a lot of workplace dress codes still forbid braids and locks,

Wanita di kantor-kantor ini berhadapan dengan pilihan sulit.

styles that are well suited to the texture of African-American's hair.

Mereka harus meluruskan rambut dengan bahan kimia

And women in those workplaces face a cruel choice.

atau memangkasnya.

Itu sangat menghina.

Para wanita ini melakukan pengorbanan

They either need to straighten their hair with harsh chemicals

yang tidak perlu dilakukan orang lain untuk menjadi profesional.

or cut most of it off.

That’s just insulting,

and it requires the sacrifice of these types of women

Pada akhirnya, gagasan kita mengenai apa yang pantas

that other people never have to make in order to be considered professional.

didasarkan oleh stereotip.

Misalnya, banyak aturan berbusana di kantor tertentu

yang mengharuskan wanita mengenakan sepatu berhak.

And finally, some of our ideas about what's appropriate

are based on stereotypes.

Wanita di seluruh dunia

And so, for instance, a lot of workplace dress codes

mulai melawan balik aturan ini.

still require women to wear high-heeled shoes.

Wanita di London menandai petisi

berisi protes tentang pemakaian sepatu berhak di kantor.

And women from all over the world

have started to push back against these kind of dress codes.

petisi ini sampai ke Parlemen.

So, for instance, a woman in London circulated a petition

Para wanita di Festival Film Cannes

bertelanjang kaki dalam rangka protes aturan berbusana

against workplace dress codes requiring high heels.

yang mengharuskan mereka memakai sepatu berhak.

And it got all the way to Parliament.

Para wanita di Jepang sudah memulai gerakan sosial

Women at the Cannes Film Festival

went barefoot in order to protest a dress code

dengan judul #KuToo.

that would require them to wear high heels.

Mirip dengan #MeToo,

And women in Japan have actually started a social movement

namun #KuToo artinya “nyeri sepatu”.

that has gotten the name #KuToo.

Anda mungkin berpikir,

It's kind of a nod to #MeToo,

but #KuToo means "shoe pain" in Japanese.

bukankah hal-hal seperti ini tidak perlu dipusingkan?

Mungkin kita hanya perlu meniru Mark Zuckerberg,

So, OK, at this point, you're probably thinking,

yang hanya mengenakan kaus abu-abu.

wouldn't it be better if no one cared about any of this stuff?

Namun, inilah alasan mengapa ia mengenakan kaus abu-abu:

You know, maybe we should all be like Mark Zuckerberg,

“Saya tidak melakukan pekerjaan saya

who just wears a gray T-shirt every day.

jika hanya mengurus hal konyol dan remeh.

But here's what he said about why he wears that gray T-shirt.

He said, "I'm not doing my job

Itulah alasan saya memakai kaus abu-abu setiap hari.”

if I spend any of my energy on things that are silly or frivolous.

Tidak terdengar seperti orang yang tidak peduli

And that's my reason for wearing a gray T-shirt every day."

terhadap apa yang orang kenakan.

Alih-alih, maksudnya adalah orang yang berpakaian rapih

So that doesn't quite sound like somebody who doesn't care

itu konyol dan dangkal dan tidak melakukan pekerjaan mereka.

about what people are wearing.

Instead, it sounds like he's saying that people who dress fashionably

Kaus abu-abu tersebut, bukan lambang kelalaian,

are silly and frivolous and aren't doing their jobs.

tetapi menjadi lambang nilai moral dan kode etik.

Mungkin bisa menjadi salah satu aturan batu berbusana.

That gray T-shirt, suddenly not a matter of indifference,

Marissa Mayer, CEO Yahoo!

it's become a signal of moral virtue and the work ethic.

And that can just be a new kind of dress code.

mengenakan pakaian bagus untuk pemotretan majalah mode,

komentar masyarakat sangat keras.

In fact, on cue, when Marissa Mayer, the CEO of Yahoo!,

Salah satu komentar berkata ia terlihat seperti sedang berlibur

wore a fashionable dress for a fashion magazine spread,

sementara orang-orang bekerja.

the response was harsh.

One commentator said she looks like she's relaxing and on vacation

Jadi, berpura-pura tidak peduli pada komentar orang

while everyone else is doing work.

justru menjadi bentuk cara berpakaian yang lebih berbahaya.

So pretending you don't care about what people wear

Faktanya, menghindari aturan busana tertulis

can turn into just a more subtle and insidious form of dress code.

memunculkan aturan baru tidak tertulis

yang sama tajamnya atau bahkan lebih mengekang.

And in fact, getting rid of the written dress code

Contohnya, bank investasi Goldman Sachs

sometimes leads to an unwritten dress code

menghapus aturan berbusana formal di tahun 2019.

that's equally harsh or maybe even more restrictive.

Namun, manajemen menambahkan:

So, for instance, the investment bank Goldman Sachs

“Kita semua paham pakaian seperti apa yang layak di kantor.”

got rid of its formal business dress code in 2019,

(Tertawa)

but the management had to add this:

Hasilnya, orang-orang mulai berpikir,

"We all know what is and is not appropriate for the workplace."

“Mungkin dihapusnya aturan berbusana adalah sebuah tes

(Laughter)

untuk melihat karyawan yang tidak cukup pintar

And as a consequence, some people started to think,

untuk menentukan sendiri apa yang pantas dikenakan.”

"Maybe getting rid of the dress code is some kind of a test

Faktanya, banyak orang di perbankan, setelah penghapusan aturan ini,

to smoke out people who aren't savvy enough

to figure out what's appropriate all on their own."

mengikuti aturan berpakaian tidak tertulis

yang sebenarnya sama saja seperti seragam.

And in fact, a lot of people in banking, after these dress codes went away,

Bahkan, ada salah satu laman Instagram --

gravitated toward a new unwritten dress code

Anda pasti sering melihat pria seperti ini?

Ada laman instagram tentang ini namanya the Midtown Uniform.

that was equally, if not more, uniform.

In fact, there's an Instagram page --

Tidak ada aturan berbusana,

tetapi semua orang memakai pakaian yang persis sama

you've seen these guys walking around town, right?

karena takut terlihat seperti

There's an Instagram page about it called the Midtown Uniform.

orang yang tidak paham pakaian yang pantas.

There's no dress code,

but everyone's wearing exactly the same thing

Tahukah anda,

berpura-pura tidak peduli dengan aturan berbusana

out of fear of looking like someone

who doesn't know what is or is not appropriate.

padahal sebenarnya peduli, bukanlah sebuah jawaban.

So, you know,

Akui saja, kadang rasanya masuk akal

trying to pretend that we don't care about what people wear

menarik kesimpulan dari cara berpakaian seseorang.

when we so obviously do isn't the answer.

Namun, reaksi kita seringkali dipengaruhi oleh stereotip

And let's face it, sometimes it makes sense

to draw conclusions from what people are wearing.

dan bias bawah sadar

dan pengalaman atau perspektif yang terbatas.

But our gut reactions are often informed by stereotypes

Baik itu aturan berpakaian atau menilai orang asing,

and subconscious biases

and limited experiences or limited perspectives.

mari periksa kembali bias kita sebelum menjadi polisi mode.

So whether it's writing a dress code or evaluating a stranger,

Terima kasih.

(Tepuk tangan)

let's all try to check our biases before we call the fashion police.

Thanks.

(Applause)