Fashion has a pollution problem -- can biology fix it? | Natsai Audrey Chieza

83,207 views ・ 2017-12-20

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You're watching the life cycle of a Streptomyces coelicolor.
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It's a strain of bacteria that's found in the soil
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where it lives in a community with other organisms,
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decomposing organic matter.
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Coelicolor is a beautiful organism.
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A powerhouse for synthesizing organic chemical compounds.
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It produces an antibiotic called actinorhodin,
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which ranges in color from blue to pink and purple,
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depending on the acidity of its environment.
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That it produces these pigment molecules sparked my curiosity
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and led me to collaborate closely with coelicolor.
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It is an unlikely partnership,
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but it's one that completely transformed my practice as a materials designer.
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From it, I understood how nature was going to completely revolutionize
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how we design and build our environments,
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and that organisms like coelicolor
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were going to help us grow our material future.
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So what's wrong with things as they are?
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Well, for the last century,
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we've organized ourselves around fossil fuels,
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arguably, the most valuable material system we have ever known.
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We are tethered to this resource, and we've crafted a dependency on it
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that defines our identities, cultures, our ways of making and our economies.
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But our fossil fuel-based activities are reshaping the earth
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with a kind of violence that is capable of dramatically changing the climate,
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of accelerating a loss of biodiversity
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and even sustaining human conflict.
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We're living in a world
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where the denial of this dependence has become deadly.
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And its reasons are multiple,
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but they include the privilege of not being affected
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and what I believe is a profound lack of imagination
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about how else we could live
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within the limits of this planet's boundaries.
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Fossil fuels will one day give way to renewable energy.
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That means we need to find new material systems
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that are not petroleum-based.
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I believe that those material systems will be biological,
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but what matters is how we design and build them.
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They mustn't perpetuate the destructive legacies of the oil age.
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When you look at this image,
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what do you see?
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Well, I see a highly sophisticated biological system,
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that through the use of enzymes,
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can move and place atoms more quickly and precisely
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than anything we've ever engineered.
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And we know that it can do this at scale.
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Nature has evolved over 3.8 billion years
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to be able to do this,
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but now through the use of synthetic biology,
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an emerging scientific discipline
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that seeks to customize this functionality of living systems,
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we can now rapid prototype the assembly of DNA.
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That means that we can engineer the kind of biological precision
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that makes it possible to design a bacteria
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that can recycle metal,
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to grow fungi into furniture
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and even sequester renewable energy from algae.
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To think about how we might access this inherent brilliance of nature --
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to build things from living things --
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let's consider the biological process of fermentation.
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I've come to think of fermentation, when harnessed by humans,
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as an advanced technological toolkit for our survival.
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When a solid or a liquid ferments,
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it's chemically broken down by bacterial fungi.
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The byproduct of this is what we value.
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So for example, we add yeast to grapes to make wine.
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Well in nature, these transformations are part of a complex network --
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a continuous cycle that redistributes energy.
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Fermentation gives rise to multispecies interactions
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of bacteria and fungi,
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plants, insects, animals and humans:
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in other words, whole ecosystems.
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We've known about these powerful microbial interactions
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for thousands of years.
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You can see how through the fermentation of grains,
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vegetal matter and animal products,
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all peoples and cultures of the world have domesticated microorganisms
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to make the inedible edible.
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And there's even evidence that as early as 350 AD,
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people deliberately fermented foodstuffs that contained antibiotics.
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The skeletal remains of some Sudanese Nubian
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were found to contain significant deposits of tetracycline.
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That's an antibiotic that we use in modern medicine today.
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And nearly 1500 years later,
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Alexander Fleming discovered the antimicrobial properties of mold.
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And it was only through the industrialized fermentation of penicillin
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that millions could survive infectious diseases.
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Fermentation could once again play an important role
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in our human development.
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Could it represent a new mode of survival
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if we harness it to completely change our industries?
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I've worked in my creative career to develop new material systems
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for the textile industry.
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And while it is work that I love,
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I cannot reconcile with the fact that the textile industry
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is one of the most polluting in the world.
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Most of the ecological harm caused by textile processing
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occurs at the finishing and the dyeing stage.
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Processing textiles requires huge amounts of water.
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And since the oil age completely transformed the textile industry,
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many of the materials
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and the chemicals used to process them are petroleum based.
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And so coupled with our insatiable appetite for fast fashion,
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a huge amount of textile waste is ending up in landfill every year
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because it remains notoriously difficult to recycle.
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So again, contrast this with biology.
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Evolved over 3.8 billion years,
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to rapid prototype,
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to recycle and to replenish
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better than any system we've ever engineered.
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I was inspired by this immense potential
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and wanted to explore it through a seemingly simple question --
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at the time.
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If a bacteria produces a pigment,
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how do we work with it to dye textiles?
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Well, one of my favorite ways
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is to grow Streptomyces coelicolor directly onto silk.
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You can see how each colony produces pigment around its own territory.
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Now, if you add many, many cells,
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they generate enough dyestuff to saturate the entire cloth.
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Now, the magical thing about dyeing textiles in this way --
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this sort of direct fermentation
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when you add the bacteria directly onto the silk --
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is that to dye one t-shirt,
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the bacteria survive on just 200 milliliters of water.
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And you can see how this process generates very little runoff
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and produces a colorfast pigment without the use of any chemicals.
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So now you're thinking --
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and you're thinking right --
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an inherent problem associated with designing with a living system is:
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How do you guide a medium that has a life force of its own?
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Well, once you've established the baseline for cultivating Streptomyces
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so that it consistently produces enough pigment,
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you can turn to twisting, folding,
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clamping, dipping, spraying,
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submerging --
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all of these begin to inform the aesthetics of coelicolor's activity.
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And using them in a systematic way
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enables us to be able to generate an organic pattern ...
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a uniform dye ...
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and even a graphic print.
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Another problem is how to scale these artisanal methods of making
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so that we can start to use them in industry.
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When we talk about scale,
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we consider two things in parallel:
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scaling the biology,
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and then scaling the tools and the processes
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required to work with the biology.
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If we can do this,
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then we can move what happens on a petri dish
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so that it can meet the human scale,
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and then hopefully the architecture of our environments.
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If Fleming were alive today,
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this would definitely be a part of his toolkit.
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You're looking at our current best guess
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of how to scale biology.
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It's a bioreactor;
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a kind of microorganism brewery that contains yeasts
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that have been engineered to produce specific commodity chemicals and compounds
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like fragrances and flavors.
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It's actually connected to a suite of automated hardware and software
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that read in real time
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and feed back to a design team the growth conditions of the microbe.
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So we can use this system to model the growth characteristics
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of an organism like coelicolor
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to see how it would ferment at 50,000 liters.
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I'm currently based at Ginkgo Bioworks,
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which is a biotechnology startup in Boston.
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I am working to see how their platform for scaling biology
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interfaces with my artisanal methods of designing with bacteria for textiles.
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We're doing things like engineering Streptomyces coelicolor
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to see if it can produce more pigment.
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And we're even looking at the tools for synthetic biology.
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Tools that have been designed specifically to automate synthetic biology
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to see how they could adapt to become tools to print and dye textiles.
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I'm also leveraging digital fabrication,
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because the tools that I need to work with Streptomyces coelicolor
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don't actually exist.
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So in this case --
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in the last week actually,
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I've just designed a petri dish
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that is engineered to produce a bespoke print on a whole garment.
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We're making lots of kimonos.
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Here's the exciting thing:
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I'm not alone.
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There are others who are building capacity in this field,
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like MycoWorks.
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MycoWorks is a startup
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that wants to replace animal leather with mushroom leather,
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a versatile, high-performance material
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that has applications beyond textiles and into product and architecture.
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And Bolt Threads --
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they've engineered a yeast to produce spider-silk protein
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that can be spun into a highly programmable yarn.
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So think water resistance,
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stretchability and superstrength.
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To reach economies of scale,
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these kinds of startups are having to build and design
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and engineer the infrastructure to work with biology.
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For example,
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Bolt Threads have had to engage in some extreme biomimicry.
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To be able to spin the product this yeast creates into a yarn,
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they've engineered a yarn-making machine
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that mimics the physiological conditions
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under which spiders ordinarily spin their own silk.
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So you can start to see how imaginative
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and inspiring modes of making exist in nature
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that we can use to build capacity around new bio-based industries.
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What we now have is the technology
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to design, build, test and scale these capabilities.
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At this present moment,
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as we face the ecological crisis in front of us,
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what we have to do is to determine
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how we're going to build these new material systems
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so that they don't mirror the damaging legacies of the oil age.
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How we're going to distribute them to ensure a sustainable development
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that is fair and equitable across the world.
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And crucially, how we would like the regulatory and ethical frameworks
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that govern these technologies
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to interact with our society.
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Biotechnology is going to touch every part of our lived experience.
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It is living;
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it is digital;
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it is designed, and it can be crafted.
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This is a material future that we must be bold enough to shape.
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Thank you.
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(Applause)
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