请双击下面的英文字幕来播放视频。
翻译人员: Chen Zhang
校对人员: Yuwei Wu
00:05
Let's talk about tattoos, shall we?
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我们来谈谈纹身吧。
00:07
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
00:09
I know some of you here tonight
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今晚肯定有些观众暗藏了纹身吧?
00:10
have probably got a sneaky
little tattoo hidden away,
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00:13
which means you're in the cool club.
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说明你是潮人俱乐部的一员哦。
00:16
Don't worry, the cool club's
not exclusive,
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没事儿,我们俱乐部很开放的,
00:18
you can join at any time.
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随时欢迎任何人加入!
00:19
(Laughs)
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(笑声)
00:21
But what really springs into mind
when I say the word tattoo?
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不过当我说出“纹身”一词时,
你想到了什么呢?
00:25
Is it artistic, expressive,
beautiful, ugly, intimidating,
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它是一种艺术,一种表达,很好看;
还是不好看、吓人,你不喜欢?
00:32
just not for you?
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00:33
There's no wrong answers, by the way.
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当然,这个问题没有错误答案。
00:36
Have you ever considered tattoos
to be empowering or healing?
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但你可曾想过:
纹身可以鼓舞或治愈人?
00:42
Tattoos are actually steeped
in the history of healing.
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其实早在古代,
纹身就被用于治疗。
00:45
5,000-year-old Ötzi the Iceman
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5000 岁的木乃伊
“冰人奧茨”,
00:47
was discovered with markings
tattooed on his limbs
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其肢体上就被发现有纹身,
00:50
in areas that would have been
causing him chronic pain.
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位于原本可能出现慢性疼痛的位置。
00:54
In cultures and tribes throughout history,
and even in modern times,
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从远古时期到现代,
就一直存在着
00:58
symbols are tattooed
onto parts of the body
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在身上纹下符号
01:00
to alleviate symptoms of chronic illness.
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消除慢性疼痛的做法。
01:04
And it works.
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而且真的有用。
01:05
Now whether you believe in "juju,"
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无论你是否相信西非的“朱朱”术中
01:08
mind over matter healing
or placebo effect,
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事物有治疗或安慰效果的观念,
01:11
or whether you consider this
may actually be a science not yet proven,
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亦或认为这是种未被证实的科学,
01:15
there's something pretty special
about using tattooing for healing.
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用纹身治疗,确实略有其事。
01:19
In our culture, we focus more
on aesthetics, don’t we?
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在我们的文化中,
我们更注重纹身的艺术效果,
01:24
But tattoos can still be very healing.
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但纹身也能有治愈效果。
01:26
If someone has a part of their body
that they don't like to show off,
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如果有人讨厌暴露身上的某个部位,
01:31
you put a tattoo
that they really love on there,
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你在那纹了个纹身,他很喜欢,
01:34
they are first on the nudist
beach in the summer every time.
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他会成为裸体沙滩最早到的那个。
01:37
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
01:39
People use decorative tattoos
to cover scars
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很多人用装饰性纹身遮盖疤痕,
01:42
or to signify a fresh start
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标志一个全新的开始,
01:45
or even to commemorate a loved one
that they may have lost.
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又或是纪念痛失的爱人。
01:48
And all of those things can have
such a positive effect
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这些对心理健康有极大的正面效果。
01:51
on someone's mental health.
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01:54
But tattoos are not just for adornment.
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但纹身不仅可以用作装饰,
01:56
They also have a place
in the medical field.
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它在医疗界也有着一席之地。
02:00
Tattooing without pigment,
known as microneedling,
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无色的纹身,
又叫微针、干针、
胶原蛋白诱导疗法,
02:03
dry needling, collagen induction therapy,
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02:06
can have an amazing effect on scar tissue.
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对瘢痕组织有极佳效果,
02:09
It can reduce tightness
in a scar, aiding mobility.
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能减缓收缩,帮助恢复活动能力,
02:13
It can flatten a raised scar.
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抚平凸起的疤痕,
02:16
And it can reduce
the appearance of a scar.
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减少疤痕面积。
02:19
We can even add
skin-tone pigment into a scar
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甚至能将肤色的色料添加到疤痕中,
02:23
to reduce the contrast between
the scar and the surrounding skin,
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减小疤痕与周围皮肤的颜色对比,
02:26
giving a camouflaged effect.
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起到伪装作用。
02:28
We can tattoo hair follicles
to give a balding gent a shaved head look
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还能纹上毛囊图案,
让秃顶看起来像只是剃了头发;
02:33
or to add density to thinning hair,
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或者让稀疏的头发显得茂密一些。
02:35
which is amazing for all genders.
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02:38
We can tattoo eyebrows,
belly buttons, toenails.
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还有纹眉、纹肚脐眼、纹脚指甲。
02:43
We can improve
the appearance of a cleft lip.
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纹身还能改善唇裂、蹼趾的外观。
02:45
We can separate webbed toes.
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02:47
The possibilities are endless.
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纹身的作用有无限种可能。
02:49
Tonight, we're going to talk
about areola restorative tattooing.
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今天,我们来讲讲乳晕修复性纹身,
02:54
This is where we fix or create
an areola, a nipple complex,
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也就是修复或打造乳晕,
即乳头上的皮肤外观。
02:59
generally for people that have been
through some kind of surgery.
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通常是经过手术的患者做这个项目。
03:02
There are many reasons as to why someone
would go through breast surgery.
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进行乳房手术的原因有很多,
03:06
But tonight, we're going to focus
on breast cancer.
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今晚我们专注于乳癌患者。
03:09
When somebody loses
their breast to cancer,
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有些患者因为乳癌做了乳房切除术,
03:11
they have a mastectomy, and they choose
to have a breast reconstruction.
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随后会进行乳房重建。
03:16
The majority of time,
the nipples don't make it.
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但大多乳头无法恢复正常外观。
03:19
And when this happens,
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这种情况下,
03:22
that person often doesn't connect
with their new breast.
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患者往往对重建乳房没有情感联结,
03:25
They don't have an emotional
attachment to it,
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没有任何感情,
03:28
they just see it as lumps of skin.
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认为只是一层肌肤而已。
03:30
And sometimes when you add
a nipple and areola complex
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但增加了乳头和乳晕的外观后,
03:33
to a reconstructed breast,
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03:35
it's like putting the cherry on the cake.
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就像是在蛋糕顶层放上了樱桃,
03:37
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
03:39
It allows that person
to feel a sense of wholeness,
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有时就会让患者感到完整,
03:44
confidence,
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感到自信,
03:45
maybe even a little bit sexy.
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甚至可能感到有些小性感。
03:47
And it's an interesting phenomenon.
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这现象很有意思,
03:49
When you put a nipple onto a breast
that didn't have a nipple,
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往一个没有乳头的乳房点上乳头后,
03:51
all of a sudden it's a bit taboo.
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就像产生了魔法一样。
03:56
But what happens if that tattoo fades?
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但纹身逐渐淡化后,会怎么样呢?
04:01
Does the empowerment fade as well?
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它带来的力量,是否也会淡化?
04:05
I'm going to talk through how I came
to the answer to that question.
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让我告诉你,我是如何得知答案的。
04:09
I started my tattoo
apprenticeship in 2008.
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我从 2008 年开始学习纹身。
04:13
I use the term
"apprenticeship" very loosely
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这里的“学习”不是正规的那种,
04:17
because there actually aren’t any formal
qualifications in any kind of tattooing,
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因为纹身行业没有正规的资格证,
04:21
and there aren't any regulations
regarding quality.
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也没有条规评判质量好坏。
04:24
So an apprenticeship in traditional
body art is work-based training.
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人体艺术的传统方式是在工作中学。
04:29
You work under master tattooers,
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你跟随着你的纹身师父,
04:31
learning everything that you need
to know about how to tattoo
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学习有关纹身的所有知识,
04:34
before you even ever do a tattoo.
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尽管还没动手做过一个纹身。
04:38
The day I came to create my first tattoo
was the most terrifying day of my life.
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我第一次创作纹身的那天,
是我人生中最可怕的一天。
04:44
(Laughs)
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04:45
And the only thing I could liken it to
is like learning to drive.
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我唯一想到能类比的,
就是学开车。
04:50
I'm guessing most of you have sat
in a car at some point,
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我猜你们大多都坐过别人开的车吧,
04:52
and a lot of us have sat in cars
our whole lives.
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很多人可能一辈子都坐别人开的车。
04:55
We've watched other people drive.
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我们看别人开车,
04:56
They make it look really easy.
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看起来很轻松。
04:58
Some people can even
multitask while driving.
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有些人甚至可以边开车边干其他事。
05:00
Not recommended, but they can do it.
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不建议这样,但有些人可以做到。
05:03
And then when you get into that driver's
seat yourself for the first time,
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然后当你自己第一次坐进驾驶座时,
05:07
you suddenly realize
you're in charge of a death machine.
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才突然意识到,手里的东西能致命。
05:10
You don’t know which foot
the brake pedal is
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你甚至不知该用哪只脚踩刹车,
05:12
or what gear you’re supposed to be in.
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应该挂几档。
你开在路中间,要撞上旁边的车了。
05:14
You’re driving in the middle of the road,
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你感觉自己开得太快了,
05:16
you're about to hit your mates,
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05:18
everything feels
like you're moving really fast,
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时速肯定都有 90 英里了,
05:20
you must be doing 90 miles an hour.
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实际上才 5 英里,
背后是一条长队。
05:22
You’re going five miles an hour,
and there’s a queue of traffic behind you.
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05:25
That for me is what learning
to tattoo was like.
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对我来说,学纹身就是这种感觉。
05:28
There are so many variables.
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有好多要注意的东西。
05:29
You’ve got to think about your setup,
your machine, the person’s skin,
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你必须考虑环境、机器、
顾客的皮肤条件和忍痛程度,
05:33
the person's pain threshold.
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还有好多好多,要注意的可太多了。
05:34
The list goes on,
and it’s very overwhelming.
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05:37
It takes most tattoo artists
about three years of full-time tattooing
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大多纹身师需要全职做三年,
05:41
to reach a point where tattooing actually
becomes like second nature,
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才能自然地掌控纹身技术,
05:46
the same as driving becomes
second nature after a while.
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熟练开车也同样需要一段时间。
05:50
I was doing work-based training,
so I always had support.
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我是在工作中学习,所以有师父帮。
05:53
If I came across a situation
I didn't know how to overcome,
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一旦遇到不会处理的场景,
05:56
I had someone to help me,
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有人能帮我。
05:58
which meant that nobody ever left me
with a really terrible tattoo.
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也就是说,每个纹身都不至于失败。
06:03
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
06:04
Which is important
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这很至关重要。
06:06
because as empowering
as a great tattoo can be,
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好的纹身可以给予人力量,
06:09
a bad tattoo can have
a really negative effect
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那失败的纹身也能产生负面效果,
06:12
on someone's quality of life.
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影响被纹身者的生活品质。
06:15
If learning how to tattoo body art
is like learning to drive a car,
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如果说学习纹身像学习开车,
06:20
learning how to do medical tattooing
on damaged skin that's scarred
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那么,学习在有疤痕、遭受过辐射
或坏死的皮肤上进行治疗性纹身,
06:25
or may have been through
radiation or had necrosis
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06:28
would be like learning
to drive an Arctic lorry.
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就像是学习驾驶货车。
06:31
Same basic skill set,
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基本技术不变,
06:33
but a lot more pressure
and a lot more knowledge needed.
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但压力大很多,需要的知识多很多。
06:38
When I decided I wanted to move
into medical tattooing,
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我决定转做治疗性纹身后,
06:41
I went about my learning in two ways.
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我通过两种方式学习治疗性纹身。
06:44
The first, like most people that want
to learn anything, I did a course.
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像大多人学大多事那样,我上了课。
06:49
And the course I chose to do
was in areola micropigmentation.
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我学的课是关于乳晕微色素沉着的。
06:54
This word micropigmentation
is a little bit misleading.
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微色素沉着这个词有点引人误解,
06:58
It sounds very clean, doesn't it?
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听起来很纯净,对不对?
07:01
It sounds professional, very suit and tie.
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听起来很专业,高级。
07:04
But I'm going to tell you a secret.
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我要跟你揭露一个“行业机密”:
07:07
It means tattoo.
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这个词的意思就是纹身。
07:09
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
07:10
Micropigmentation is the act
of implanting pigment into the dermis,
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微色素沉着指将色素植入真皮。
07:14
which is the definition of a tattoo,
but it sounds nicer, doesn't it,
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这不就是纹身么?
但听起来更好,是吧?没那么吓人。
07:18
a bit less scary.
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07:21
The difference appears to come
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两者的差别在于
07:23
in the fact that micropigmentation
is designed to fade,
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微色素沉着是会褪色的,
07:27
and it's really designed
for the tattooing of eyebrows,
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主要用于纹眉、纹唇、纹眼线,
07:30
lips and eyeliner,
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07:31
and it's designed to fade
and facilitate a regular top up.
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会逐渐褪色,需要定期维护。
07:35
And when it comes to permanent makeup,
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关于半永久妆容,
07:37
there are many reasons as to why
that would be important,
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有很多原因导致只做半永久,
07:40
but one of which is that fashions change.
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其中一个原因便是潮流瞬息万变。
07:43
I'm not sure about you,
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不知道你们怎么样,
07:44
but my nipples have never
really been affected by fashion.
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我的乳头是不太需要追逐潮流。
07:47
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
07:51
These courses last
about two to three days,
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那门课大概持续了两三天,
07:54
and they're aimed at people
that already do micropigmentation,
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主要面向做微色素沉淀的工作者,
也就是半永久妆容师,
07:57
so permanent make-up artists.
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07:58
But they are also aimed at people
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但也面向甚至未见过纹身机器的人,
08:00
that have never even seen
a tattoo machine before,
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08:02
such as people from the medical field,
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例如医疗行业工作者。
08:05
which would be like teaching someone
to drive an Arctic lorry in two days
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这就有点像用两天时间教人开货车,
08:09
and just handing them the keys
without them having ever driven a car,
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然后没让他们先试试,
就把车钥匙给了他们。
08:12
wouldn't it?
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08:15
Even after ten years
of tattooing body art,
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哪怕我做了十年纹身,
08:18
my two days didn't fill me
with confidence.
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短短两天的课程很难让我胸有成竹,
08:21
I needed more knowledge.
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我需要了解更多知识。
08:23
I chose to do a mentorship
with a lady called Stacie-Rae Weir.
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我决定让一位女士教我,
她叫斯泰西蕾·维尔
(Stacie-Rae Weir)。
08:27
Stacie-Rae is the founder of ART
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她是乳晕修复纹身组织创始人。
08:29
which stands for Areola
Restorative Tattoo,
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这个组织简称 ART,
08:32
and it's a global collective of highly
skilled restorative tattoo artists
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集聚了全球顶尖的修复纹身师,
08:37
that all work to a standard set by ART.
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并制定修复纹身的行业标准。
08:41
In an industry that has no standards,
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在没有规章制度的行业中,
08:44
a standard that's high enough
is really important.
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一套要求严格的行业标准非常重要。
08:48
ART focuses on three main aspects.
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ART 主要看三个方面。
08:52
The first is experience.
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第一个是经验。
08:56
We can't learn how to tattoo damaged skin
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面向健康皮肤的纹身术若尚未精湛,
08:59
until we've mastered
tattooing healthy skin.
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损伤皮肤上的纹身术就不可能学好。
09:01
We have to learn how to do something
called reading the skin.
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我们需要学如何识别皮肤状态,
09:04
This is where we can tell,
as we're tattooing,
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即在做纹身时,要判断
09:07
how much trauma we are causing,
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切换技术造成了何种程度的痕迹。
09:08
when to change our techniques.
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但这需要时间和经验。
09:10
That takes time, that needs experience.
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09:13
The second is realism.
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第二个标准是仿真能力。
09:16
Nipples are as unique as fingerprints,
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乳头就像手指一样,具有独特地位,
09:19
although not an alternative
to fingerprints.
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虽然不如手指那么不可替代。
09:21
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
09:24
We have to have some artistic ability
to create something truly realistic
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所以我们纹出的效果得自然真实,
09:29
that's actually going to make
someone feel whole again.
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才能让顾客再次感到完整。
09:32
And the third is permanence.
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第三个标准是永久度。
09:35
I have to be completely honest.
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我必须承认,
09:37
I didn't really grasp
how important permanence was
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我本不理解永久度对纹身有多重要,
09:41
when it came to these tattoos,
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09:42
until I started doing them
out in the big, wide world.
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直到我为更多顾客和原因做纹身。
09:45
People still come to me
with these really strange pink smudges
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顾客会再次来找我,
乳头的位置只有奇怪的粉色圆点,
09:49
where their nipple should be.
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09:51
And this is what's left over
from micropigmentation.
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那是微色素沉着留下的痕迹,
09:53
This is the fading tattoo.
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也就是已褪色的乳头纹身。
09:55
I had one client who had
areola micropigmentation
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有个顾客在找到我的 12 年以前
10:00
performed 12 years before she came to me.
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做过一次乳晕微色素沉着。
10:02
And she was so disappointed
with the way her breast looked
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纹身褪色的模样让她很失望,
10:05
with these strange pink smudges
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以至于没敢让任何人看见她的胸部,
10:07
that she hadn't shown anyone
her breasts in all that time,
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10:09
not even her husband.
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哪怕是她的丈夫。
10:11
And now she feels so confident
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现在,在我为她纹上了
10:13
after I tattooed a realistic
nipple and areola complex for her
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一个自然且永久的乳头和乳晕后,
她的自信又回来了。
10:17
that will last forever,
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10:18
she has allowed me
to show you the picture tonight.
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这张照片经过了她的允许而展示的。
10:21
So that's how empowering a tattoo can be.
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这就是纹身的力量。
10:24
But it did get me thinking,
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这就让我想起来,
10:28
why aren't we talking about this?
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我们为什么不谈乳晕纹身呢?
10:30
How many people are suffering in silence?
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有多少人在默默地承受着?
10:32
It's not the kind of thing
you talk about down the pub, is it?
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乳晕纹身不是唠家常的话题,
“最近怎么样?你的乳房还行吗?”
10:35
"Alright then? How's your nipple doing?"
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我们对之闭口不谈。
10:37
We just don't talk about it.
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10:40
I wanted to give people a voice.
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但我想听听被纹身者的声音。
10:42
So I put together a survey.
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所以我设计了一个调查,
10:44
With the help of ART
and the Nipple Innovation Project,
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和 ART 以及乳房创新计划
(Nipple Innovation Project)
10:47
we shared this survey globally,
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面向全球发放调查问卷,
10:49
and we asked people that had had
restorative tattooing done
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询问做过乳晕修复纹身的人,
10:52
of their areola,
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10:54
how they felt once it had healed.
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修复完成之后,后来感觉如何。
10:56
We already know from previous
studies and experience
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从此前的研究和经验中,
11:00
how amazing getting a nipple tattoo can be
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我们知道,对没有乳头的人来说,
11:02
for someone that hasn't got a nipple.
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纹了一个乳头有多开心。
11:05
But we wanted to establish
whether there was a link
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但我们想看看,纹身者后来的心态
11:07
between the healing of that tattoo
and how that person felt moving forward.
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是否也在纹身的治疗范围。
11:13
Unsurprisingly, the majority of people
that completed our survey
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果不其然,填写了问卷的大多人
11:16
had had areola micropigmentation done,
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在乳晕修复前都做过微色素沉着,
11:18
meaning that their tattoo faded.
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也就是有过纹身褪色的经历。
11:21
Of this group, 81 percent admitted
that they were not satisfied
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其中 81% 表示对治疗结果不满,
11:25
with the healed results.
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11:27
51 percent admitted that they had suffered
adverse mental health effects
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51% 表示曾因整个治疗过程
11:31
due to the healing of their tattoos.
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反而对心理健康造成了负面影响。
11:35
There were a lot of really heartbreaking
comments on this survey,
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我们收到了很多令人心碎的回答。
11:39
and the one that spoke to me the most
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和我有最多交流的一位,
11:42
is that there is a lady
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是一名女士,
11:44
who keeps her bra on in the bath
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她甚至连洗澡时都穿戴着内衣,
11:46
because she hates the look
of her breast reconstruction so much
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因为她很厌恶她重建后的胸部
11:49
because of her faded nipple tattoos.
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乳头褪色后的模样。
11:53
Imagine keeping
your clothes on in the bath
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试想你为了避免瞥见镜子里的自己,
11:55
just in case you catch
a glimpse of yourself in the mirror.
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而特意穿着内衣洗澡。
12:01
Imagine being the surgeon that has spent
hours creating a really beautiful,
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试想你是名外科医生,
花了几小时重建出对称好看的胸部,
12:05
symmetrical breast reconstruction
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12:07
to have it aesthetically ruined
by poor nipple tattoos.
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却被褪色的乳头纹身毁了它的模样。
12:13
I am a trustee for the Nipple
Innovation Project.
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我是乳房创新计划NIP的受托人。
12:17
We are the UK's first
tattoo cancer charity,
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NIP 是英国首个
癌症纹身的慈善组织,
12:21
and our mission is to empower
and dignify breast cancer survivors
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用立体、真实、永久的乳头纹身
12:25
with 3D, realistic,
permanent nipple tattoos.
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守护乳癌康复者自尊是我们的使命。
12:30
We have a directory of artists
throughout the UK
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全英许多修复纹身师都是成员,
12:32
that all work to a standard set by NIP,
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都遵循着 NIP 设立的标准工作,
12:34
another standard, very important,
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NIP 设立的这套标准也很重要。
12:37
and funding is available from the charity
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NIP 会发放基金补贴,
12:39
so that there is no financial
burden on the clients.
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确保进行修复的客人没有经济负担。
12:43
Our campaign for this year
has been #mychoice.
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我们今年的口号是“随心之选”。
12:46
True empowerment comes
from making an informed decision.
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不被隐瞒而清楚地做出选择,
才是真正的力量来源。
12:50
We believe everybody should have access
to all of the knowledge that they need
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我们认为,需要做决定前,
12:54
to make this decision.
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人人都有权知道所有相关信息。
12:56
Some people were never told
that their tattoo was going to fade.
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有些人没被告知他们的乳头会褪色;
13:00
Some people found the idea of going
back to hospital every year for a top up
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有些人觉得每年回医院维护
会给他带来重复性伤害。
13:04
too traumatic.
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13:05
People should know that there is a safe,
permanent alternative.
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他们有权知道还有安全永久的选择。
13:10
We recently spoke at the oncology
convention at the NEC,
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我们近期在 NEC
举办的肿瘤学大会
13:13
which was a great success,
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进行了演讲,大获成功。
13:15
and one of the points
that we were really trying to make
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我们当时强调的一点是,
13:17
is that just because someone’s got
funny-colored hair and tattoos
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有些纹身师发色五花八门,
13:21
that draws on people with electric
crayons for a living,
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用电动蜡笔在人身上画画以谋生,
13:24
it doesn't mean
that we're not professional.
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但这不代表我们纹身师不专业,
13:26
It doesn't mean that we're not
producing quality results.
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不代表我们创造不出高质量的作品,
13:29
And it certainly doesn't mean
we don't care about our clients.
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不代表我们不在意客户。
13:32
Long gone are the days
of the backstreet tattoo studio,
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纹身工作室早已不再是地下产业了,
13:35
tattooing is actually a pretty
upstanding career now.
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纹身行业现在正在爬升呢。
13:38
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
13:41
So there you go.
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所以呢,
13:42
The word tattoo is not a dirty word.
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纹身一词并不肮脏,
13:45
It's a transformational word.
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它是能转变人的事物,
13:47
It's a life-changing word.
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能改变生活的事物。
13:49
And when you give someone a tattoo
that truly makes them feel whole again,
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若你的纹身能让人再次感到完整,
13:54
it gives them confidence
and a better quality of life,
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它能给人以信心,鼓舞人生活。
13:57
that, my friends,
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朋友们,
13:59
is how you use tattoos
as a tool for empowerment.
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这就是用纹身给人力量的方式。
14:03
Thank you.
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谢谢。
14:04
(Applause)
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(掌声)
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