Sean Sherman: Why aren't there more Native American restaurants? | TED

Transcriber:

翻译人员: Lelush Ivanoff 校对人员: Bruce Wang

Hi there, my name is Sean Sherman,

I am a chef.

Unfortunately, I don't have food for you guys tonight.

Food for thought, I guess, maybe.

I'm here to talk about Native American food.

I was born and raised in Pine Ridge in South Dakota,

我出生在南达科他州的派恩里奇

and our focus are on Indigenous foods.

And, you know, it's been a really interesting journey so far.

当然，那是一个很有趣的过程

I started my company called The Sioux Chef --

我开了自己的公司，取名为“那个苏族人厨师”

S-I-O-U-X, a little play on words --

S-I-O-U-X，有点像文字游戏 (sioux即印第安人一个分支，苏族人）

back in 2014.

在2014年

But it had come from quite a few years of trying to research and understand

但是这个花了我几年去研究和明白

because I kind of grew up in restaurants.

因为我是餐管里长大的，

I grew up in Pine Ridge.

在派恩里奇

I grew up in Spearfish and in South Dakota in the Black Hills.

我在南达科他州黑山的斯皮尔菲斯长大

And I started working a lot of touristy restaurants.

我最开始在旅游景区的很多餐馆打过工

And, you know, I had just a long career.

我有很长的厨师职业生涯。

All through high school and college, I worked restaurants.

我读高中和学院的时候都在餐馆打工。

After college, I moved to Minneapolis.

学院毕业后，我搬去明尼苏达州。

I became a chef at a young age in the city.

我年纪轻轻成为了那个城市的其中一个厨师

And I'd just been cheffing for a long time.

我已经做了很久的厨师

And a few years into my chef career,

在我厨师生涯的几年里，

I realized the complete absence of Indigenous foods.

我发现印第安人土著美食几乎没有存在感。

And even for myself, I realized that I couldn't even name --

连我自己都无法说出一道印第安人土著美食的名称

I could name less than a handful of Lakota recipes that were truly Lakota,

我只能说出少数几个真正的印第安人食谱，

things without cream of mushroom soup in it, right?

类似不加奶油的蘑菇汤那种食谱，对吗？

(Laughter)

（笑声）

So I was really trying --

所以，我尝试

It, you know, put me on a path to try and understand what happened,

去了解发生了什么，

like where are all the Native American foods at, you know?

土著美国人的食物到底去哪儿了？

And so it's been really interesting.

结果很有趣。

So Indigenous foods, that shouldn't be --

印第安人土著美食应该是——

there shouldn't be a big question mark, you know,

不该有个问号在那儿

we should know about it,

我们应该知道这些

because no matter where we are in North America, we're --

因为不管我们在美洲北部的哪里

you know, North America obviously begins,

你知道的，美洲北部的历史

all of its history begins with Indigenous history, right?

始于印第安土著的历史，对吧

And no matter where we are, we're standing on indigenous land.

所以不管我们在哪里，我们是站在土著的土地上。

And so we should have a really good, strong sense of Native American food

所以我们必须对印第安人土著美食有很强的意识

because it's just the land that we're on.

因为这是我们印第安人的土地。

It's just the history of the land that we're on.

这是我们站立的这片土地的历史。

So for us, it became more than just serving foods.

所以对我们来说，这不仅仅是做料理。

It really became talking about it and talking about why it isn't here.

这更加是，探讨为什么土著美食不在了。

And I think it's a really important story for us to know.

我认为这是印第安人必须知道的重要史实。

And it's also really important to see

知道印第安美食能带来哪些好处

the benefit of why understanding Indigenous foods

也是很重要的

could really help all of us in the future.

这能在未来帮助我们。

So, you know, but where are all the Native American restaurants?

所以，土著印第安餐馆都去哪里了呢？

We live in a world today, you know, where we have --

我们生活在美国

as the US, we’re like food capitals of the world, right?

世界食物之都，对吧？

We have some of the best restaurants in New York City, in Chicago and LA,

在纽约、芝加哥和洛杉矶，我们有很多顶级的餐馆，

and zero Indigenous restaurants

但是没有一家专注于本土的、土著的

that are focused on the land that they're sitting on,

印第安餐馆。

which is kind of insane.

这多少有点说不通。

You can have every other restaurants -- and Indian restaurants don't count,

你可以有其他所有种类的餐馆，除了印第安餐馆，

because that was my only choice on Facebook,

因为那是我在Facebook上唯一的选择，

because when I was trying to decide how to describe our restaurant --

因为我在想该怎样描述我们的餐馆

is it Indian or is it new American or old American?

是该叫印第安餐馆、新美国餐馆还是旧美国餐馆？

But anyways, so what we've done is like we tried to focus on, first off,

不过我们首先做的是专注于

just understanding what were precontact foods, precolonial foods.

去了解什么是殖民前的土著食物。

And I realized that that term didn't even really make a lot of sense to people.

我发现很多人甚至不知道那段时期（殖民前）。

So I think it's really important to go through the storyline

所以我认为理清时间线很重要。

because to understand colonial or what is a precolonial food,

因为在了解殖民食物或者前殖民食物之前，

you have to understand colonialism itself.

要先了解殖民主义本身。

And to understand colonialism, the easiest way is just to Google it.

了解殖民主义最简单的方法是百度一下。

So if you Google the word "colonialism,"

当你百度“殖民主义”这个词的时候，

you'll get a definition, "it's a policy or practice

你会看到这样的定义，

of acquiring full or partial political control over another country,

“殖民主义是得到别个国家全部或者部分政治控制权，

occupying it with settlers and exploiting it economically."

占领别国领土、侵略别国经济的政策或行动。”

And this is something that's happened not uniquely here.

殖民不仅仅是发生在这片土地上。

It's happened all across the globe.

它发生在全球各地。

So all over the Americas, North and South, all over Africa,

整个美国，不管是北方还是南方，整个非洲

all over India, all over Southeast Asia,

整个印度，整个东南亚，

Australia, New Zealand, Hawaii, you name it,

澳大利亚，新西兰，夏威夷，

like this has been a very common history

地球上很多地方，

for a lot of areas around the globe.

都有殖民史

For the US, which is our focus,

对于我们关注的美国来说，

because we're right here smack dab in the middle of the United States,

因为我们就在这里，在美国中部

it's really important to understand the history

了解这段历史就非常重要。

because the US did a really good job of smudging its history a little bit.

因为美国把这段历史模糊化。

So if you're going through high school,

所以如果你去上高中，

the history you get on Indigenous peoples probably isn't the best history.

在历史课上你学到的土著人历史可能是丑化的。

So you really should read a little bit more about what really happened.

所以你真的需要多读一点真实的史料。

So let's start with Manifest Destiny,

我们就从“昭昭天命”开始，

which is really kind of something that was born from the idea

这是一种理论，

of what was originally doctrine of discovery,

关于发现新领土、扩张领土的主义，

which basically gave European powers their own rights to say,

是欧洲人用来宣传扩张北美领土的口号，

if we discover it, then we own it.

“如果我们发现了它，那我们就拥有它。”

Right? But that policy doesn't really work that well,

是吗？但是这个政策并不总是奏效，

because if you go into an Apple Store and you discover a brand new MacBook,

因为如果你去苹果商店发现了一台全新笔记本电脑，

most likely you're not going to have the rights to walk out the door with it.

大概你不能“发现它，就拥有它”。

But a lot of our policies and a lot of --

但是很多政策都基于此政策，

like, our country was built on this notion

整个国家都是在这个观念——对所有东西都有发现即拥有的权力

that we just have this right to everything, right?

之上建立起来的。

And people have to remember how young our history is.

而且人们应该牢记我们的历史有多短。

We're such a young country, you know?

美国是这么一个年轻的国家，是吧？

There's like, barely any time has passed.

就好像，几乎没有过去多少时间（从美国建国）。

So just go back a couple hundred years

所以我们只用往前推几百年，

and, like, start with 1800s.

从19世纪开始。

So in 1800, the United States is still not much more

在1800年时，美国联邦包含的州还少，

than just the 13 colonies at that point in history.

只有13个州。

And it’s the 1800s that are the most deadly century for Indigenous peoples.

所以，19世纪可以说是印第安人的死亡世纪。

So a lot of really bad things happened during this time period,

一系列的可怖活动发生在这段时间里（扩张地盘时对印第安人的种族灭绝），

because in 1800, in reality,

因为在19世纪初，

almost all of what is the US is still completely occupied

几乎所有现在美国的地盘，

by Indigenous peoples and communities

当时都是印第安人的地盘。

and a huge diversity of them across the board.

并且他们的分布具有多样性。

Even despite European powers having big land claims, you know,

就算欧洲强国声称他们有一大块地盘，

France has a big section and Spain's got big chunks

法国和西班牙过去都有一大块，

and England is holding on to chunks and Russia is coming in

英国正手握几块地盘，俄罗斯闻风而动，

and there's all sorts of just big land grabs happening.

那时列强瓜分土地的事情一直在发生。

But in reality, it's the Indigenous communities

但是事实上，这些都是印第安人的地盘，

that have always been there.

一直都是。

But this century is a mass century of change, you know.

但在19世纪里，发生了很多很多改变。

So during this time period, things move really fast.

19世纪风云巨变。

So this is just a really tough time.

对印第安人来说是一段痛苦的时间。

And for me, this is like my great-grandfather's era

对我来说，这是我曾祖父那个年代。

because my great-grandfather was born in the late 1850s

因为我曾祖父出生于19世纪50年代，

and during his lifetime, he sees so much change so quickly,

在他有生之年，看尽了世事剧变，

he sees so many battles between the Lakota and the US government.

他见证了苏族人和美国政府的多次战争。

He sees the Battle of Little Bighorn when he's 18 years old,

他18岁时见证了“小大角战役”，

during the battle on the Lakota side.

在苏族人一侧的战斗中。

He sees his kids having to go to boarding school, cut their hair,

他看着自己的孩子被迫剪掉头发、去上印第安人寄宿学校，

learn to speak English, learn Christianity.

学习英语，学习基督教义。

He sees his children --

他看着自己的孩子——

some of his children even grow up to fight for the US government.

甚至他的孩子长大了却为美国政府而战。

So it's such a crazy amount of change to see in one single lifetime, right?

对于一个人短短一生的时间来说，真是沧海桑田啊

And during this time period, people are getting pushed around.

在那段时间里，印第安人被赶来赶去。

At the beginning of that century,

在19世纪初，

over 80 percent of that landmass was under Indigenous control.

80%以上的土地是印第安人的地盘。

And by the end of the century less than two percent,

到19世纪末，只有不到2%属于印第安人，

only because of the reservation systems.

这都是因为“昭昭天命”。

And this is all just part of the story

这只是关于为什么没有土著美国餐馆

of why there aren't Native American restaurants,

的部分史实，

because we just went through a really traumatic time in history

我们刚刚回顾了一段令人痛苦的历史，

where we're still -- we haven't even had the time to heal yet,

一段到现在印第安人的心都还没有愈合的历史，

let alone evolve, right, when it comes down to all this.

更不用说让我们忘记伤痛，往前看了。

So the US history, you know,

美国的历史，

there's a lot of these big movements like the Indian Removal Act of 1830,

充满了太多的对印第安人的“大动作”，

the Homestead Act of 1862,

比如说1830年《印第安人迁移法》，1862年《分地法》，

the Indian Appropriation Act

《印第安人拨款法》。

that basically said we're wards the states,

法案里说我们保护着国家

that we're not our own entities anymore,

但我们印第安人已经没有组织了，

the Dawes Act of 1887.

还有1887年《戴维斯法》

And all these pieces were very focused

所有的这些东西，

and the government was really, really good at what they did, you know.

还有政府的所作所为，真是干得一手好活

And it all starts with taking our food away from us.

最开始是从剥夺我们的食物开始的。

So the loss of Indigenous food

所以消失的土著食物，

is something that starts from the very beginning.

象征着一切的开始。

George Washington, one of his very first things that he does

乔治·华盛顿（美国总统），他做的第一件事，

is send General Sullivan out to push all the native people outside of the US.

就是让沙利文将军把土著印第安人赶出美国。

He wanted them captured. He wanted them brought back.

他希望印第安人被抓到带回来。

And they went on this march that lasts a single summer

印地安人一整个夏天都在路上，

and does just that.

被驱逐的路上。

So after a single summer,

过完一整个夏天，

there's no more native people in all of that New York area,

纽约和华盛顿特区，

from D.C. all the way up, basically.

基本上没有了土著印第安人。

And they named George Washington

印第安人给这位美国总统，乔治·华盛顿

the president.

起了个外号。

They gave the name for a US president: Town Destroyer,

这个外号叫：城镇摧毁者，

which is still the name that they use today

直到现在它们还这么叫

because he just devastated a whole area.

因为他摧毁了一整个区域

And this is the precedent that gets set

这就是美国政府

for how the US government treats the Indigenous peoples

在接下来的几乎整个20世纪，

throughout the next century, basically.

如何对待土著印第安人的先例。

So here, in our area, the very systematic destruction of bison,

所以，在这片土地上，这种系统性的破坏，

which they knew would hurt a lot of people, and it did.

他们明知会伤害很多人，但他们仍然做了。

And by the end of the century, there was less than 500 on the planet.

到了世纪末，这个地球上只剩不到**印第安人。

And it was very purposeful. So ...

这些政策的执行是坚定不移的。

But I think what's most damaging for us

但是我觉得对我们伤害最大、

and why we don't have a lot of Indigenous restaurants out there

以及我们没有土著餐馆的原因，

was the loss of our education,

是印第安文化教育的缺失，

because this whole generation,

因为整整一代印第安人，

like my great-grandfather's generation

就是我曾祖父那一代人，

and my grandfather's generation especially,

尤其是我祖父那一代人，

like, those generations should have been getting

几代人本应该得到

the full extent of Indigenous education.

印第安文化的教育。

They should have been learning everything their ancestors intended them to learn.

他们本应该学习祖辈流传下来的知识、文化。

How to fish, how to hunt, how to gather, how to identify plants,

比如怎么捕鱼、捕猎、辨认植物，

how to live sustainably, utilising plants and animals around us.

怎么集会、怎么利用周围的动植物可持续地生活。

But instead, we went through a really intense assimilation period

然而，他们经历的却是强制被同化。

where we basically, you know,

基本上就是

the boarding school systems

用印第安人寄宿学校制度

stripped this whole generation of all that knowledge and education.

抹去整代人所有的印第安人印记。

And it became very traumatic

并且那是一个痛苦的过程，

because this was not a fun situation for these kids to go through.

没有印第安儿童能快乐地在寄宿学校生活。

This was a military-style school and they popped up all over the US,

整个美国、加拿大都是这种

all over Canada.

军事化的学校。

These kids being again forced to speak different languages,

这些儿童被强迫说另一种语言（英语），

forced to learn new religions,

被强迫去学另一种宗教（基督教），

forced to learn skills that had nothing to do with them.

被强迫去学对他们无用的技能。

And being forced to is the situation.

寄宿制学校的主题就是强迫。

You know, a lot of these kids perished.

很多儿童在寄宿学校死亡。

We shouldn't have to worry about sending kids to school

我们没必要通过把孩子送到学校，

to see if they'll survive or not.

来判断他们是否能够生存。

But this was a very harsh situation for kids to go through.

对印第安儿童来说这是很严酷的环境。

And they went through physical abuse, sexual abuse.

他们经历了肉体虐待、性虐待，

They went through mental abuse.

精神虐待。

And we're still reeling from that in our communities today

今天我们的族群社区仍然摇摇欲坠，

because of this direct link to the trauma that happened there.

因为这直接关联着过去的精神创伤。

And being Indigenous in the 1900s wasn't much better.

20世纪的印第安人也并不好过。

My grandparents were born before they were even citizens,

我祖父母出生于

which doesn't happen until 1924.

移民法案颁布的1924年之前。

And then in the 40s and 60s,

在20世纪40年代-60年代之间，

the US government started dismantling a lot of tribes.

美国政府解散了很多部落。

So over 100 tribes got dismantled

在解散了100个部落后，

so they could continue to take over more land spaces.

他们得到了更多的土地。

We couldn't vote until 1965.

我们直到1965年都没有投票权。

We couldn't celebrate religions until '78, you know.

直到1978年都不能庆祝自己的宗教节日。

So what does it look like for me growing up in this?

所以，对于成长于这种环境下的我来说，意味着什么呢？

I was born in the mid-70s and growing up in postcolonial America.

我出生于20世纪70年代中期，成长于美国后殖民时代。

Like, what kind of foods was I eating?

所以，我吃的是什么食物呢？

And I get asked that a lot

我想刨根问底。

because people in the media are always like,

因为社交媒体上经常有人问，

"You're native, like what kind of foods did you grow up with?"

“你是土著印第安人，那你吃什么食物长大？”

Because they want to hear a cool story like, "I'd get up in the morning,

因为他们想听到新奇的故事，

take down an elk with a slingshot, we'd have a big family feast."

类似“我早上起床后，用弓射死一头鹿，然后全家饱餐一顿。“

But that wasn't the reality,

because like I grew up with the Commodity Food Program

但这不是事实，

我成长的年代国家有商品食物计划

because we were poor, like a lot of people on the reservation.

因为我们很穷，就像很多印第安聚集区的人一样

And we didn't even have the pretty cans when I was growing up.

我们甚至没有好一点的罐头

We just had, you know, these black and white cans, beef with juices.

我们只有这种黑白罐头，带汁的牛肉。

And that's dinner, you know, and that sucks. So ...

晚餐，自然是很差。

And Indian tacos, you know, even when I was a kid, I was like,

至于印第安卷饼，当我小的时候，我在想，

why does our Lakota food taste like Mexican food?

为什么我们苏族人的食物，像墨西哥食物？

It didn't even make sense to me at the time.

我那时觉得想不通。

Because we could do better than this.

我们可以做得更好。

There's so much more to learn and more to offer with indigenous foods.

对于土著食物，可以学的、可以做的太多了

So it’s really important to understand what Indigenous foods are.

所以了解何为土著食物非常重要。

But first, you have to understand just like how diverse our nation is.

但是首先，你要了解我国家是多样化的

We're so diverse, there's all sorts of plants and animals out there.

而我们印第安部落又是如此地多样化，有那么多种类植物和动物。

And when you layer Indigenous peoples on it,

当你把印第安人放进版图中去，

you can see so much amazing diversity, you know?

你可以看到这种令人惊叹的多样化。

This is a language map.

这是一幅语言分布图。

So just look at all those huge color blocks

我们就看这些大的色块，

and within those color blocks

这些色块表示

there's all sorts of diversity within those two, right?

这两块色块能看出多样化吧？

Still today, we have 634 tribes in Canada,

到今天，在加拿大我们还有634个部落，

573 in the US and 20 percent of Mexico identifies as Indigenous.

在美国有573个部落，20%的墨西哥人是土著印第安人。

So there's an immense amount of indigeneity out there today

所以现在其实还有很多土著人

and we should be celebrating that diversity because it's awesome.

我们应该庆祝我们的多样化，因为多样性本身很棒。

You know, just compare colonial settler states to Indigenous territories

比较殖民者占领州和土著人的地盘

and you can see that diversity.

It should change everywhere we go.

就可以看到多样性。

有印第安人的地方都应该改变。

You know, the US, the food system

美国的整个食品系统，

shouldn't just be hamburgers across the board,

整个国家，不应该全是汉堡。

or in Canada shouldn't just be poutine.

加拿大也不应该全是肉质乳酪薯条。

We could do so much better describing our foods, right?

我们可以更好地描述土著食物，不是吗？

And so we have to really focus on Indigenous education

我们应该专注于印第安文化教育

because it's important for us to learn.

因为这对我我们很重要。

So when we're looking at Indigenous education,

当我们仔细看印第安教育时，

it's a study of all these pieces, wild food, permaculture,

它包括这些知识：野生的食物，“朴门永续设计”，

native agriculture, seed saving, seasonal lifestyles, ethno-oceanography,

本地农业，种子保存，节令性的生活方式，民族-海洋学，

hunting, fishing, whole animal butchery,

捕猎，捕鱼，宰杀动物，

mycology, salt, sugar and fat productions,

真菌学；食盐、糖和脂肪，

crafting, land stewardship, cooking, metallurgy, Indigenous history,

手工，土地管理，烹饪，冶金学，土著历史，

traditional medicines, food preservation, fermentation, nutrition, health,

传统医药，食物保存，发酵，英语，健康，

spirituality, gender roles, sustainability --

精神，性别角色，可持续性 ...

all of that stuff is this really important education

所有的这些，都是很重要的知识。

that we need to learn, you know.

都是我们需要学习的。

So let's just break down some foods real quick.

让我们来快速拆解一下食物。

Proteins are easy.

We learn about how natives were able to use every single part of a bison.

蛋白质很简单。

我们会学习土著人利用野牛的每一部分的方法。

But that's just because we didn't have the privilege to be wasteful.

那是因为我们没有浪费的特权。

We figured out how to be resourceful with everything that we had

我们研究怎样去使拥有的东西变得丰富

and we treated everything like that.

我们对待每个东西都是这样。

But basically, anything moving around is literally game.

基本上，任何会动的东西都是一种游戏。

And we cut out beef, pork and chicken because those animals didn't exist here.

我们除掉牛肉、猪肉和鸡肉，因为这些动物这里没有。

And there are other animals to eat out there that aren't those three.

这里有其他的动物可以吃。

So there's just a ton of stuff out there.

这里有很多种食物。

And you shouldn't be afraid of something if it's not a cow, a pig or a chicken

你不必因为食物不是牛肉、猪肉或鸡肉而慌张，

because there's a lot of cool foods out there, and even insects,

因为这里有很多很棒的食物，甚至是昆虫

it's so normal in so many parts of the world

这在世界上很多地方都很平常

and it was normal here, too.

But for us, our biggest love is plant knowledge

在这里也同样平常。

不过我们更喜欢的是关于植物的知识。

because you start to learn the plants around us,

因为如果你开始认识周围的植物，

you just see food and medicine everywhere.

就会发现到处都是食物和药物。

The Western diet has never really taken the time

西方的美食根本没有花时间去

to learn this amazing biology that surround us

学习我们周围的神奇的

and all these plants all around us.

动植物。

Because there's so much to learn.

因为要学得的知识是如此的多。

There's all sorts of staples out there, like the timpsula,

这里有很多食品，比如提姆普苏拉，

which is the prairie turnip which grows around these plains.

一种生长在平原的天冬草；

Camas root from the Pacific Northwest, wild rice from the Great Lakes,

来自大西洋西北部的百合属的camas；来自五大湖的野生大米；

even just seaweed out there in the oceans,

甚至是海里的海藻。

which a lot of families were utilizing,

很多家庭都在吃

or in the deserts where all the plants look like

在沙漠里，所有的植物看起来像是

they want to hurt you or maim you.

会伤害人。

The Indigenous peoples knew how to live with them.

印第安人知道该怎样和它们共存。

And another piece like the domesticated piece,

另外一些物种，驯化的物种，

with all the agriculture, it's really important,

农业耕种的物种，也很重要。

because we think of this as agriculture but we know how damaging this is.

虽然我们认为这是农业，但是农业的害处也很多。

And it's scary when you see headlines like, "What should we do

如果一个标题是“如果我们在麦片里发现 N-(膦酸基甲基)甘氨酸（除草剂）该怎么办呢？”，

if glyphosate was found in our Cheerios?"

看起来就很惊悚。

You guys should be really scared about that.

大家应该对此感到害怕。

That stuff's really nasty, you know.

那些农业上用的除草剂之类的东西真的不好。

But it's just amazing to learn about Indigenous agriculture

如果去了解印第安农业，就会被它惊艳。

because it goes back so far

and people figured out all sorts of ways to farm

因为它是如此的古老，

人们发明了很多方式去种植、驯养物种，

and build sustained, huge civilisations,

创建了可持续地，伟大的文明，

whether they're in the middle of the desert,

无论他们是否在沙漠中部，

whether they're on the coastal regions, or way up here in the Dakotas.

无论他们是否在沿海地区，还是在达科他州。

People were able to farm amazing things

人们驯养了很多神奇的物种，

that had an amazing amount of diversity that we need to protect.

需要我们保护的多样化的物种。

We are the stewards of what's left of this diversity.

我们要保护好现存的物种。

And a lot of it got wiped off the map

很多物种永远消失了，

in the 1800s with all that colonialism that was going on.

在19世纪，殖民主义进行的时候。

So we have to be understanding so we can protect these for the next generation

所以我们要为下一代保护好这些物种，

because these could disappear if we don't do anything about it.

什么都不做的话，它们会灭绝。

So it's really important to understand that.

所以在今天去了解印第安人的知识、

So to use Indigenous knowledge in today's world,

运用这些知识都很重要，

it's just important to open up your eyes, you know, stop calling everything a weed

可以开拓你的眼界。不要再把所有植物都叫野草了，

because that just means you don't know what it is.

这只会暴露你不认识它。

You know, our kids can name more K-Pop bands than they can trees

现在的小孩能说出很多韩国男团女团的名称，

and that's your fault, you know?

却说不出树的名称，而这是家长的错。是吧？

(Laughter)

We need to teach them things that are important.

（笑声）

我们要教孩子重要的知识。

Because, like, just look around.

There's food everywhere and we should be making pantries,

因为，你环顾四周，

到处都是食物，我们应该像我们祖父、曾祖父那样

like our grandparents did, and our great-grandparents.

储存周围的食物。

They just used the food that was around us.

他们就是利用周围的食物填饱肚子。

So we should just be making our own pantries

所以，我们也应该这样，

that tastes like where we are,

身土不二，

what makes us unique in our own region.

保留族群特色食物。

And that's why we should have Native American food restaurants

这也是我们必须在全国各地都有

all over the nation, run by Indigenous peoples.

印第安人开的土著餐馆的原因。

There's so much to explore.

印第安美食是如此的美味、

There's so much flavor. There's so much health.

健康、

And it's just super healthy, you know,

等待我们去探索。

and it's fun for chefs to create and play with all these flavors.

对厨师来说，也有很多创造的乐趣。

Chefs should be really excited about getting to learn all of these plants

厨师应该对

that aren't in their diet

学习在他们的菜谱里使用这些植物感到激动，

because they're just going out of a French cookbook.

因为这可以让他们脱离法国食谱。

And for us, we just want to get this food back into tribal communities especially,

对我们来说，我们只是想要传统食物回归部落社区，

and make people healthy and happy and break a lot of the cycle of, you know,

尤其是它能让人们健康、快乐；

government reliance on food

能打破对政府食物的依赖；

and huge rates of type 2 diabetes and obesity and heart disease

通过低营养的食物去降低

because of this low nutritional food base

因为政府供给了这么久的食物造成的

that the government's been feeding us for too long.

二型糖尿病、肥胖、心脏病的发病率。

And we just need to think about how we can adjust

我们只需要想想怎样去适应、

and make a better lifestyle.

We need to use our land spaces better.

创造一个好的生活方式。

我们应该更好地利用土地空间。

Lawns are fucking stupid.

(Laughter)

草坪真TMD蠢。

We need to really do something better.

（笑声）

我们真该做点什么。

We could just be growing food out there, you know?

我们应该在门前草坪的位置种地。

We could just be putting food plants everywhere.

我们应该到处种点吃的。

We need more community gardens, more permacultural landscapes.

我们需要更多的社区种植园，更多的 “朴门永续设计”式的空间

It's that easy.

If we can grow 30 golf courses

这个施行起来很简单，

毕竟我们能在沙漠中的棕榈泉市，

in Palm Springs in the middle of the desert,

种出30个高尔夫球场的草坪。

just think what we could do if we just did that for good

想一想，要是换成种吃的，

and just put food everywhere, you know?

到处种食物，那该是什么样？

An organic food, food that wants to grow in that certain region.

这个地方应该种绿色有机食物。

So, you know, Indigenous diet

所以其实，印第安食物，

is really the most ideal diet.

是最理想的食物。

It's healthy fats.

It's diverse proteins, it's low carbs, it's low salt.

它有健康的脂肪，

多样化的蛋白质，低卡、低盐。

It's a ton of plant diversity. It's organic agriculture.

多种植物，绿色有机的农业。

It's celebrating cultural and regional diversity.

它的存在就是庆祝文化和宗教多样性。

And it's seasonal.

It's just really good.

并且它是合乎时令的。

它真的很棒。

It's like what the paleo diet wishes it was,

它就像“旧石器饮食”所倡导的那样。

when it comes down to it,

because that just makes sense, you know, and we need to protect this.

说到土著美食，

我们应该要保护它，

We need to get this out there.

And again, it's not unique here.

因为这是有道理的。

但土著美食并不是这里独有的。

There's Indigenous peoples all around the world

全世界都有土著居民，

and there's an Indigenous knowledge base

这里是土著文化的大本营。

that's basically untapped because of the colonial structure

因为殖民，曾经到场都是的土著文化，

that's been put everywhere.

We need to be protecting people in Africa and India

现在基本上是还未得到开发和保护。

我们应该保护非洲、印度、

and Southeast Asia and Australia, New Zealand, Hawaii,

东南亚、澳大利亚、新西兰、夏威夷、

South America, North America.

We need to protect those.

南美、北美的土著居民。

We need to be celebrating diversity

我们要保护这些土著。

我们要拥抱多样性，

instead of trying to build stupid walls to keep people out.

而不是去建那个愚蠢的墙（美墨边境墙）。

We need to have, you know, healthy food access,

我们应该吃健康的食物，

cultural food producers,

regional food systems, local control of food systems,

有特色文化食品供应商，

有地方食品供应、控制系统

not governmental control,

而不是政府控制的食品系统。

access to Indigenous education and environmental protections

接受土著文化教育、保护环境，

to protect a lot of this natural food that surround us.

保护我们周围的自然食物。

We need to be better connected to our nature around us

我们要更好的和周围的大自然联结

and really, truly understand how it's a symbiotic relationship.

真正懂得人与自然的共生关系。

We're not above it, right?

我们还达不到上述所说的，是吧？

If we can control our food, we can control our future.

如果我们能掌控我们的食物，我们就能掌控我们的未来。

And for us, it's an exciting time to be Indigenous

对我们印第安人来说，这是一个激动人心的时刻。

because we are taking all of these lessons from our ancestors

因为我们从祖先那里学了

that should have been passed down to us,

所有应该流传的知识，

relearning them and utilizing the world today

再发现了这些知识。并且用这些知识

with everything it has to offer

and becoming something different.

改造利用当今世界，

让世界有一些不同。

We're at the stage where we're ready to evolve.

我们站上了我们准备革新的舞台。

This is an Indigenous evolution and revolution at the same time.

同时这也是印第安文化的发展和革新。

So I hope someday that you can drive across this nation,

我希望有一天你开车横穿美国时，

stop at Indigenous-run food businesses

可以在印第安人开的餐馆停留一下，

and see this amazing amount of diversity out there

看看那令人惊艳的多样性食物和文化，

and just think about it, you know.

然后沉思片刻。