José Andrés: How a team of chefs fed Puerto Rico after Hurricane Maria | TED

69,012 views ・ 2018-05-01

TED


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00:12
All right, let's get ready for the worst TED Talk ever.
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(Laughter)
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I mean it. We prepared 30 minutes ago.
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I want to have it clear -- I love to be here with you all,
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but I wanted to be here not to tell my story
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but to tell the story of the amazing people of Puerto Rico
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that came together to feed the people of Puerto Rico.
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My name is José Andrés, and you know I love to feed the few,
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but even more, I love to feed the many.
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Here, right after the hurricane,
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like we'd done many times before after an earthquake in Haiti
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or Sandy or others,
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I had this sense of urgency to be there
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and to try to feed one person,
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and always, you have crazy friends that want to join you
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in those impossible endeavors.
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I'm always surrounded by amazing friends that only help me to be better.
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Nate came next to me.
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This was a Monday, and this is what we found.
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The destruction you saw on TV, one more hurricane,
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but this destruction was real.
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More than 95 percent of the electricity in the island was gone.
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Every single electric post was gone.
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All the cell towers were gone.
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You couldn't communicate with anybody.
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You couldn't find anybody the moment you moved away from San Juan.
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Even in San Juan, we had issues trying to use our cell phones.
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And what I found was that the island was hungry,
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and the people didn't have money, because ATMs were not working,
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or their cards, which are electronic, for food stamps,
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they couldn't use it in their supermarkets,
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or there was no food or gas or clean water to cook.
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The need and the urgency of now was real,
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and I was just able to get into a meeting at FEMA,
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where many of the main NGO partners were having a conversation
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about how to feed the island in the weeks to come,
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but the urgency was right now, in this minute, in this second,
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and we almost had three million people that needed to be fed.
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So we began doing what we do best.
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We went to see the sources of food,
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and I was able to see that the private industry actually was ready
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and prepared and thriving,
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but somebody at FEMA was not able even to be aware of that.
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And what we did was use fine kitchens.
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José Enrique, one of my favorite men in the whole world,
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one of the great restaurants in San Juan,
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where before landing, I began calling all the chefs of Puerto Rico,
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and everybody was like, "Let's not plan, let's not meet,
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let's start cooking."
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(Laughter)
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And that's what we did.
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We began feeding the people of Puerto Rico, on a Monday.
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On a Monday, we did a thousand meals, sancocho, an amazing stew
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with corn and yucca and pork.
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By Sunday, we were doing 25,000.
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By Sunday, we already didn't only use the restaurant,
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but we rented the parking lot right across.
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We began bringing food trucks,
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and a rice and chicken paella operation, and refrigerators,
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and volunteers began coming.
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Why? Because everybody wants to find a place to help,
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a place to do something.
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This is how we began our first delivery.
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The hospitals -- nobody was feeding the nurses and the doctors,
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and we began feeding our first project,
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Hospital Carolina.
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All of a sudden, every single hospital was calling us.
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"We need food so we can feed our 24/7 employees
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taking care of the sick and the elderly and the people in need."
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And then the place was too small. We were receiving orders.
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Every time we got one guest, one customer,
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we never stopped serving them,
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because we wanted to make sure that we were able to be stabilizing
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any place we were joining,
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any city, any hospital, any elderly home.
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Every time we made contact with them, we kept serving them food, day after day,
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so we needed to grow.
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We moved into the big coliseum.
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25,000 meals became 50,000 meals,
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became, all of a sudden, the biggest restaurant in the world.
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We were making close to 70,000 meals a day
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from one location alone.
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(Applause)
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Volunteers began showing up by the hundreds.
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At one point, we got more than 7,000 volunteers
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that were at least one hour or more with us,
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at any given moment, more than 700 people at once.
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You saw that we began creating a movement,
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a movement that had a very simple idea everybody could rally behind:
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let's feed the hungry.
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And we began making food that people could recognize,
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not things that come from a faraway place
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in plastic bags that you open and you cannot even smell.
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(Laughter)
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We began making the foods that people feel home.
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People in these moments, they had this urgency of feeling they are alive,
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that somebody cares.
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One meal at a time,
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it didn't only become something used to bring calories to their bodies,
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calories that they needed,
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but they needed something else.
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They wanted to make sure that you and you and you and you,
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that you were caring,
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that we were sending the message that we are with you.
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Give us time, we are trying to fix this.
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That's what we found every time we began joining the communities.
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Fresh fruit began coming,
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even when in FEMA, they were asking me,
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"José, how are you able to get the food?"
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Simple: by calling and paying and getting.
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(Laughter)
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(Applause)
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We began feeding people in San Juan.
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Before you knew, we were feeding the 78 municipalities all across the island.
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We needed a plan. One kitchen alone was not going to feed the island.
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I went to FEMA. They kicked me out with eight armored guards and AK-47s.
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I told them, "I want 18 kitchens around the island."
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Guess what? Three days ago, we reached our 18th kitchen
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around Puerto Rico.
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(Applause)
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People began being fed.
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Volunteers kept showing up.
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We never had any system to deliver the food, people would tell me.
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Sure, we had the system.
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The entire island of Puerto Rico was the perfect delivery system.
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Anybody with a truck wanted to help.
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Anybody going from A to B was for us the way to be bringing hope
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and a plate and a whole meal to anybody.
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We began finding amazing systems to do these food trucks,
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10 amazing food trucks.
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We began learning not to use the place that needed the food,
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but the number,
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the number of the apartment:
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Lolo, a 92-year-old veteran that was surrounded by water.
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We began giving not only hope to people,
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but knowing their names,
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checking day after day,
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making sure that those elderly people will never, ever again feel alone
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in a moment of disrepair.
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And we began going to the deeper areas,
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places that all of a sudden, the bridges were broken,
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but we had to go, because it was easy to stay in San Juan.
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We had to go to those places that actually, they really needed us.
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And we kept going, and people kept waiting for us,
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because they knew that we will always show up,
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because we will never leave them alone.
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(Applause)
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The food trucks became our angels,
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and the food trucks kept sending hope,
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but we saw we needed more:
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Vieques and Culebra, two islands far away from the island --
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somebody had to be feeding them.
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We didn't only bring food and make a hotel kitchen operation in Vieques
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and bring daily food to Culebra.
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We brought the first water purification system
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to the island of Vieques,
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where we could be filtering one gallon per minute.
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All of a sudden, big problems become very simple,
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low-hanging fruit solutions,
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only by doing, not planning and meeting in a very big building.
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(Laughter)
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And then we found creative ways.
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We needed helicopters. We asked. We got.
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We needed planes. We asked, we paid, and we got.
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We kept sending food to those places that really were in need.
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And the simple ideas just become powerful.
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Volunteers will go to the edges of the island.
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All of a sudden, it was a movement.
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The teams of World Central Kitchen
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will be received with prayers, with songs, with claps, with hugs,
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with smiles.
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We were able to connect in so many corners.
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When I tell you that even the National Guard began calling us
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because our national poor guy's guards,
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big heroes in a moment of chaos,
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they couldn't get a simple humble plate of hot food.
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And partnerships show up.
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Mercy Corps,
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HSI from Homeland Security,
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partnerships that they didn't happen calling the top.
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They happened in the hotel room, in the middle of the street,
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in the middle of the mountains.
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We saw that by working together, we can even reach more people.
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Partnerships that happen by logic,
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and the urgency of now is put to the service of the people.
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When we have emergency relief organizations,
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we cannot be planning about how to give aid a month from now.
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We have to be ready to start giving help
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the second after something happens.
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And children were fed,
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and all of a sudden, the island,
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while still in a very special moment
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where everything is fragile,
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we saw that an NGO like ours --
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we didn't want to break the private sector --
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that already, small restaurants were being opened,
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that somehow, normalcy,
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whatever normalcy means today in Puerto Rico, was happening.
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We began trying to be sending the message:
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we need to start moving away from the places
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that are already stabilized
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and keep concentrating in the areas that really need help.
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(Video): People of Puerto Rico, two million meals!
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José Andrés OK, let me translate this to you.
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(Laughter)
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Almost 28 days later,
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more than 10 food trucks,
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more than 7,000 volunteers,
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18 kitchens ...
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we served more than two million meals.
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(Applause)
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(Applause ends)
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And you guys coming here to TED, you should be proud,
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because we know many of you, you are part of the change.
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But the change is only going to happen if after we leave this amazing conference,
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we put the amazing ideas and inspiration that we get,
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and we believe that nothing is impossible,
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and we put our know-how to the service of those in need.
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I arrived to an island trying to feed a few people,
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and I saw a big problem,
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and all of a sudden, the people of Puerto Rico saw the same problem as me,
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and only we did one thing:
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we began cooking.
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And so the people of Puerto Rico
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and the chefs of Puerto Rico, in a moment of disrepair,
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began bringing hope,
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not by meeting,
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not by planning,
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but with only one simple idea:
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let's start cooking and let's start feeding
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the people of Puerto Rico.
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Thank you.
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(Applause)
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Dave Troy: Go back out.
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(Laughter)
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DT: The public loves you.
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(Applause)
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Nate Mook: A couple of quick questions,
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because I think some folks would be interested to hear.
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So as you said, you came the first time,
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got on the ground,
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went to the government command center,
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started to have some meetings with people,
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and they weren't very receptive.
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José Andrés: This is great. This is how good my talk was.
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(Laughter)
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It's the first talk with a follow-up in the history of TED.
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I feel so good.
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(Laughter)
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NM: So tell us why, what were some of the challenges,
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and then when you noticed, they started coming to you to ask you.
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JA: We cannot be asking everything from Red Cross or Salvation Army.
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But the idea is, I donated before to those organizations,
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and they are the big organizations,
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and maybe the problem is that we're expecting too much from them.
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It's not like they didn't do what they were supposed to do.
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It's that the perception is that that's what they do.
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But all of a sudden, you cannot get into a moment like this and wash your hands,
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and you say somebody else is going to be picking it up.
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We had a simple problem that had a very simple solution.
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This was not a faraway country
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or the Green Zone in Baghdad.
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This was American soil,
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a beautiful place called Puerto Rico,
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with hundreds, thousands of restaurants and people willing to help,
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but all of a sudden, we had people hungry,
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and we didn't have a plan how to feed them in the short term.
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So yes, FEMA, to a degree, was thinking about how to feed the people.
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Red Cross didn't have the right answers,
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because Southern Baptist Church, the biggest food organization in America,
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my heroes, they were never called to Puerto Rico.
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When you see the Red Cross delivering food in America after a hurricane,
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it's Southern Baptist Church doing it.
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We didn't have that in Puerto Rico.
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Salvation Army came and asked me for 420 meals on a Wednesday rainy night
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for a local elderly shop.
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I love to help the Salvation Army,
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but in my world, they are the ones who are supposed to be helping us
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to answer those calls of help.
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Thursday morning is when I wake up super worried
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that actually we didn't have the plan to feed the island.
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And some people will say maybe you are making the problem
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bigger than it was.
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Well, we had hundreds and hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of organizations
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knocking on our door, asking for a tray of food,
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so if that's not proof that the need was real ...
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We cannot be feeding people in America anymore with MREs
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or something like you open and, you know,
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I was giving to this little cat a little bit of those same foods --
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(Laughter)
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and then I gave them the chicken and rice we made,
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and they went for the chicken and rice.
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(Laughter)
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(Applause)
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They don't even eat that themselves.
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We can feed humanity for a day or two or five,
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but those MREs cost, like, 12, 14, 15, 20 dollars to the American taxpayer.
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It's OK for certain moments,
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during battle,
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but not to be feeding Americans for weeks and weeks and weeks,
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when actually, you can be hiring the local private business community
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to do the same job better, creating local jobs,
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helping the local economy to come back,
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and in the process making sure that everything was going to go back
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as normal as quick as possible.
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That's where we began cooking.
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You were there with me,
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and that's why we spent every single dollar we had in our credit cards.
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If AmEx is listening to this, please, a discount would be appreciated.
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(Laughter)
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Or Visa.
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NM: So what's the situation now?
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You know, it's been a month.
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You said there's been some improvements in San Juan
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and focus on the areas outside,
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but obviously there are still major challenges, and what's next?
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JA: There are. So what's next is we slowly began going down
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after, more or less, FEMA let us know
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that they thought they had everything under control
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and we were no longer needed,
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but you only believe everything so much.
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We moved from the big place you saw, 60,000 meals a day,
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to another one, as big, but more strategically located,
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also cheaper,
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where we are going to be making 20-25,000 meals a day,
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and then we are leaving four, five, six kitchens
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strategically located around the island,
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very high up in the mountains, in the poor areas.
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We got a lot of data.
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We know who is using SNAPs, who is using food stamps,
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the cards.
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We know who has them and we know who is using them.
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So in the parts of the island where nobody is using them,
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those are the parts of the island where we are going to be focusing our efforts.
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So it's amazing how sometimes simple data can give you a clue
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of who are the people in need.
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So we went to a town called Morovis.
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Beautiful.
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The best chicken restaurant in the history of mankind.
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You should all travel to Morovis.
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DT: Sounds good.
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JA: So I saw the chicken. We were bringing sandwiches.
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I stopped. I was with these Homeland Security officers.
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We ate the chicken.
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I left to drop these sandwiches in this other place called San Lorenzo.
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San Lorenzo was critical, because the bridge was broken,
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and so it was an island inside the island,
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a little community surrounded by water.
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Everybody told us, "It's a disaster down there."
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We dropped the sandwiches.
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I went back to Morovis, and I thought,
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you know, if it's a disaster, sandwiches is not enough.
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I brought 120 chickens,
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with yucca and with rice,
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and we went back to that broken bridge,
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we crossed the river,
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water up to everywhere.
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We arrived with the 120 chickens,
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we dropped the food,
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and the community were very thankful, but they told us,
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"We're OK, we don't need more food.
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18:47
We have gas, we have money,
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we have good food and our water is clean.
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Take care of the other communities around us that are in more need."
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You see, communication is key.
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18:58
In these scenarios, we can be relying on fake news
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or we can be having the real information that we can make smart decisions
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to really take care of the true issues.
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That's what we are doing.
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(Applause)
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NM: It was an amazing operation,
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19:19
and to witness it firsthand and to play a small role --
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JA: You made it happen.
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NM: At its peak, I think you were up to about 150,000 meals
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per day, across the island,
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which is pretty incredible.
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And I think, at the same time, really sort of setting a model
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for how this can be done, hopefully, moving forward.
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I mean, I think that's one of the big learnings out of this --
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DT: This is possible. You know, people can replicate this.
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JA: But I'm going to stop coming to watch TED Talks,
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because you've got ideas that anything can happen.
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(Laughter)
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19:51
And then my wife told me,
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"Man, you told me you were going to cook a thousand meals a day.
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19:57
I cannot leave you alone for a day."
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19:59
(Laughter)
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But I hope that World Central Kitchen --
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you know, one thing we did I didn't say:
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20:07
I picked up the phone and I began calling people,
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20:09
people that I thought had expertise that could help us.
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20:13
So I picked up the phone and I called a company called Bon Appétit, Fedele.
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20:17
Bon Appétit's one of the big catering companies.
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They do food for Google and for arenas.
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20:23
They're out of California.
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20:24
They belong to a bigger group called Compass.
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20:27
And I told them, "You know what?
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20:29
I need cooks, and I need cooks that can do volume
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20:34
and that can do good, quality volume."
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20:37
In less than 24 hours, I began getting people and chefs.
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20:40
At one point, we got 16 of the best chefs that America can offer.
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You see, America is an amazing heart country
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that always is sending their best.
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20:50
What we've been learning over the years
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is that those chefs of America are going to be playing a role
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20:56
in how we are going to be feeding America and maybe other parts of the world
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20:59
in times of need.
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What we need to start
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is bringing the right expertise where the expertise is needed.
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21:06
Sometimes I have a feeling, like with FEMA,
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21:09
we are bringing the wrong expertise in the areas that it's not even needed.
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21:13
The people of FEMA are great people.
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21:15
The men and women are smart,
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21:17
they are prepared,
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but they live under this amazing hierarchy pyramidal organizational chart
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21:23
that everybody falls out of their own weight.
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21:26
We need to be empowering people to be successful.
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21:29
What we did was a flatter organizational chart
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21:32
where everybody was owning the situation
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21:35
and we all made quick decisions to solve the problems on the spot.
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(Applause)
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21:41
DT: Absolutely.
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(Applause)
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Another round of applause for José Andrés.
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21:45
(Applause) (Cheering)
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