My Secret to Creating Real Magic | Christina Tosi | TED

85,040 views ・ 2022-03-23

TED


Please double-click on the English subtitles below to play the video.

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My very first food memory was when I was three or four.
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It was a warm day,
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and my mom had just picked me and my sister up from school,
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buckled us into the back of her dusty blue Ford Taurus.
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She was halfway out of the school parking lot
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when she pulled over to the side.
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She strangely reached for her purse that was resting on the dashboard,
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started fishing around for something until she found it.
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Then she twisted around to us,
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and she tore open a yellow paper bag
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of slightly melted Sugar Babies.
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(Audience murmurs)
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She poured a few of the pellets into each of our tiny hands.
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Now, I want to be clear,
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this was not a normal mom thing.
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This was breaking several rules.
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It was after lunch but before dinner,
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we were in the car,
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(Laughs)
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we hadn't done anything spectacular to be celebrated.
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And Sugar Babies are, well, pure sugar.
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I was so confused.
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But I was a kid, so I took the candy, and I started chewing.
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God, I felt like I had just been inducted into the coolest club possible.
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The one that eats candy on a random Wednesday.
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(Laughs)
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And then the world, it slowed down.
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Everything faded.
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And then everything sharpened.
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There is only one word for what I felt in that moment.
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Magic.
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Real magic.
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Now, most people think that’s kind of crazy,
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three or four years old.
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I don't remember anything about my childhood for years after that,
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but I remember that day,
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I remember those Sugar Babies,
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and I remember that feeling.
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Now, most people think of magic as a trick, right?
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Abracadabra.
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This seemingly impossible act, put on purely for entertainment.
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But I'd like to challenge that.
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Magic, real magic is not an illusion.
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Real magic is the feeling
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when life transforms from the ordinary into the extraordinary.
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And not only is it real.
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It is the very thing that connects us to this world,
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to one another,
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to our entire existence.
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It's the spark of a moment.
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It's the feeling of believing,
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of belonging,
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of getting,
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of being gotten.
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It is the crack
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that opens up our hearts and reminds us to let light in.
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Now I own Milk Bar,
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this quirky American-style bakery
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that I'll tell you a little bit about later.
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And I have found
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that magic is often created by breaking some sort of rule.
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Like the "no sweets before dinner" rule.
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Or wearing overalls to a corporate board meeting.
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Or simply daring to defy the expectations of the people around us.
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Now, as a kid,
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breaking the rules usually only got us in trouble, right?
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But as adults, it's a different story.
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Breaking the rules, pushing boundaries,
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challenging the norm,
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asking why, why not?
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It does something to us.
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It shakes us from sleepwalking.
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And it makes space for magic to sneak in.
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Now I was raised by matriarchs,
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fierce heroic grandmas who loved to bake in their free time.
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And they knew good and well that food was for nutrition and sustenance,
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but they didn't care.
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(Laughs)
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They'd baked as their way of breaking the rules.
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They'd make batches of lemon bars instead of casseroles
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or one-pot wonders.
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And they put those baked goods in baggies
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and hand them out,
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hand that magic out to the most unassuming people.
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The newcomer to the neighborhood,
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the mail carrier or my personal favorite,
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the receptionist at the dentist office.
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(Laughs)
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Now I knew what the receiving end of magic felt like
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from that Sugar Baby moment.
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But witnessing what the giving part of real magic did ...
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It moved these people.
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It was awe-inspiring.
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And so I decided
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that baking would be my way of making magic in the world,
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creating a moment and then giving it away.
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A magic pyramid scheme, basically,
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that I wanted, needed more of.
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Only my mom and my grandmas thought that baking was just a hobby.
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But I knew it could be more than that.
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So I moved to New York City to become a professional pastry chef.
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I went to culinary school;
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I climbed the ladder of fancy restaurants,
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making fancy desserts to become the very best of the best.
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Only ...
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I never found magic in those beautiful, delicate plated desserts.
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I could only find my magic in a cookie or a slice of cake
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or a gooey underbaked pie.
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And so when I opened Milk Bar,
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that bakery that I was telling you about,
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I decided I wasn't going to frost the sides of a cake
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like the textbooks taught me.
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(Laughter)
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I decided I was going to load cookie dough with marshmallows
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or pretzels and potato chips
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and butterscotch chips and coffee,
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tossing convention out the window.
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I wanted people to eat birthday cake, not just on their birthday,
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but any day they wanted.
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I knew that my magic came in the form of these simple baked goods,
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but I also knew that simple, approachable, accessible,
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nostalgic flavors
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were my best jumping-off place to create new desserts.
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Almost as though fancy were the enemy of delicious.
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I’d go to county fairs to nosh.
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I'd go to the diner and order slices of pie
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from that revolving display case.
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I'd take french fries and dip them in chocolate milkshake and dream.
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And then I'd go into the kitchen and tie on my apron
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and start mixing up a new creation
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rooted in something known and safe and loved
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but reaching far beyond what anyone thought accessible.
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Or approachable.
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Or doable.
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Breaking the banking rules became my daily ritual.
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I mean, who says a layer cake can't taste like salty malty sweet pretzels?
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I mean, my culinary instructors for one.
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(Laughs)
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"Watch me," I'd think.
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And I'd take pretzels,
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toast them in the oven to deepen their flavor,
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then grind them into a powder-like consistency
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and substitute some of the cake flour in a recipe
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for that pretzel powder.
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It's pretty good.
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When I was opening Milk Bar, I knew I wanted to serve ice cream.
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A rebellious kind of ice cream.
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No surprise, right?
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So I decided to buy a soft serve machine,
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which for the record, was very rebellious at the time.
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I had to decide what flavor to make.
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I mean, why do we only accept chocolate and vanilla
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as ice cream flavors?
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I needed to come up with something better, different.
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Push that boundary.
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I knew I had to come up with a flavor of milk
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that was different.
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Milk is, like, the base of any great ice cream.
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So I sat out inspiration at my 24-hour bodega.
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Favorite place to go.
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Because that's where we all shop,
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that's where our simple taste buds are formed,
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it's the flavors we know.
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Up and down the aisles till I hit it.
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My favorite section of the grocery store as a kid,
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the cereal aisle.
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Now as a kid, my mom and I had an agreement.
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I was a pretty picky eater,
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and we agreed that I could have as much cereal as I wanted
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as long as I drank all the calcium-rich milk
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at the bottom of the bowl.
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I mean, I thought it was highway robbery.
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Does she not understand how good that sugary sweet milk was at the bottom?
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That's interesting.
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That's a really delicious flavor of milk.
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It moved me.
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It made sense to me,
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but would it make sense to other people?
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Figured I'd give it a try.
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So I went back to the kitchen
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and made the equivalent of a giant bowl of cereal.
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I strained out all that delicious milk,
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and I spun it into ice cream.
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Put it on the menu.
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And I've got to tell you, even now,
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people stop me on the street
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to tell me about their cereal-milk ice cream moment.
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"So good."
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"Seemingly a little naughty."
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I mean, how did I know that was their flavor?
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That's the flavor they eat when they're wearing pajamas,
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when no one's looking.
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The flavor of their childhood.
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These people will tell me about every detail of the day.
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They will tell me about the weather, the company they kept,
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the way that an ordinary moment was transformed into something magical
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with a simple bite.
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I built my business with the same "challenge the norm" mentality.
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Rather than measure my business's success by the profit or loss sheet,
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by the average order value,
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the other metrics that businesses use
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to know if they're doing well,
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I decided we'd measure our impact by the twinkle in people's eyes.
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By the "Oh, I can't put that down" feeling
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that they had when they ate one of our desserts.
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I chose to put women at the helm of my organization.
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Because when I looked around the hospitality industry,
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people running operations, folks holding CEO titles,
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they were all men.
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I mean, why?
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I was raised by these fierce matriarchs who handled business,
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and I wanted my organization to look like that.
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I want to show the world what women were capable of
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and what a "bakery" could be.
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Push back on that cute little box people like to put us in.
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And in turn, the rules broke for us.
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The magic, our magic, got out.
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Word spread without us spending a dollar on marketing.
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Rare in our industry,
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we grew our business without diluting the business.
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I mean, we won awards
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no tiny East Village bakery has any business winning.
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(Laughs)
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It's pretty incredible.
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Even today
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I get to witness that feeling,
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that same one that my grandmas conjured up in my childhood.
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We ship cakes all across the country,
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we keep our doors open from early in the morning until late at night.
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It's insane for a bakery to do.
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But we do it because we're obsessed with it.
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We're obsessed with what we do.
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We teach classes, we share recipes
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despite any concerns of copycats
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or intellectual property infringements,
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because that's what you do
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when you benefit from what came before you
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and you plan on passing it along long after you.
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Thank you.
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(Applause)
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When you know you're here to give, not take,
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and leave this place better than you found it.
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See, mom, you can bake for a living.
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Pretty cool, if you ask me.
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Now I don't have the full equation cracked,
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but I do know that it starts with the decision to act.
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My mom, she could have driven that car home routinely,
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but she decided that that day would not be like the others.
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She threw out that rule book for just a second.
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I carry this lesson with me,
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that every day has within it hundreds,
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thousands of opportunities to create real magic.
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Only, they disappear.
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Unless you reach out and grab them.
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Thank you.
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(Applause)
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